Kitchen cabinet finish schedule.
#17
  Re: RE: Kitchen cabinet finish schedule. by Philip1231 (I finished my kitche...)
A lot has changed in 20 years.  I've never had a problem with EnduroVar or Enduro Clear Poly, but I have seen EnduroVar get damaged by a leaky teapot sitting on a cloth pad for a few hours, so it can happen.  If you want bullet proof I would choose a conversion varnish or 2K poly.   TC's EM8000CV is well liked and I'm told it sprays like a dream.  

John
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#18
  Re: Kitchen cabinet finish schedule. by Tim J. Chase (Kitchen cabinet fini...)
John, do you have any experience with targets shellac water based sealer trying to figure out weather I use should Seal coat (cut 50 % with alcohol per Jeff, at target recommended ) or try the waterborne shellac it says and depicts that it will add amber. I'm going to use the EM 8000 w cross linker additive for a top coat.
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#19
  Re: RE: Kitchen cabinet finish schedule. by Tim J. Chase (John, do you have an...)
(09-27-2020, 02:48 AM)Tim J. Chase Wrote: John, do you have any experience with targets shellac water based sealer trying to figure out weather I use should Seal coat (cut 50 % with alcohol per Jeff, at target recommended ) or try the waterborne shellac it says and depicts that it will add amber. I'm going to use the EM 8000 w cross linker additive for a top coat.

Sorry Tim, no experience with TC's WB shellac.  If I remember your thread correctly you are planning to apply new finish over an existing finish. If that's correct, I would use Sealcoat as the barrier/bond coat.  It sticks to everything and most everything sticks to it.  If you want a more amber color, add your choice of Transtint dye.  Honey Amber is a good choice.  

John
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#20
  Re: RE: Kitchen cabinet finish schedule. by jteneyck ([quote='Tim J. Chase...)
(09-27-2020, 11:24 AM)jteneyck Wrote: Sorry Tim, no experience with TC's WB shellac.  If I remember your thread correctly you are planning to apply new finish over an existing finish. If that's correct, I would use Sealcoat as the barrier/bond coat.  It sticks to everything and most everything sticks to it.  If you want a more amber color, add your choice of Transtint dye.  Honey Amber is a good choice.  

John

Thanks John actually I'm applying finish to raw maple plain and figured and am trying to match a pre finished maple plywood so far I've tried Zinsser clear shellac its very close thus the interest in it Jeff at target coatings said the EM 8000 will work with seal coat diluted 50 % with alcohol, I just am wondering if it would all perform better with there water based shellac. I'll figure it out as you said some trans tint honey amber would get me there if it needs jumped up a bit.
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#21
  Re: RE: Kitchen cabinet finish schedule. by Tim J. Chase ([quote='jteneyck' pi...)
(09-28-2020, 03:04 AM)Tim J. Chase Wrote: Thanks John actually I'm applying finish to raw maple plain and figured and am trying to match a pre finished maple plywood so far I've tried Zinsser clear shellac its very close thus the interest in it Jeff at target coatings said the EM 8000 will work with seal coat diluted 50 % with alcohol, I just am wondering if it would all perform better with there water based shellac. I'll figure it out as you said some trans tint honey amber would get me there if it needs jumped up a bit.

I prefer Sealcoat because it doesn't raise the grain like WB products can.  That's probably not much of a concern with maple, however.  

John
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#22
  Re: Kitchen cabinet finish schedule. by Tim J. Chase (Kitchen cabinet fini...)
I used to believe that Sealcoat (shellac) could be used as a primer for any finish.  Not true.

PPG's Breakthrough! 250VOC was not happy over shellac.  It caused crazing. 

As a rule, I think dewaxed shellac is fine as a primer for most finishes, but based on my experience with the Breakthrough!, I would test first.  And let the finish cure overnight before making a decision.

I've use Sealcoat for Benjamin Moore's Advance and it was fine over poplar.  But over the 1/4" thick MDF on the center panels of shaker doors I had a problem with grain-like striations running horizontally.  It looked like I had painted over open-pored oak.

I reshot after first applying 1-2-3 primer and the finish looks fine. 

So usually shellac is fine as a first coat, but test first.
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