Router Table and Router Table Fence
#11
Here's the router table and router table fence I have been building. There is a little more work to do on the micro-adjuster, which is coming from AliExpress, as well as the dust extractor for the (2 1/4 hp) Elu 177e router I use. But for now, the rest is done.
 
This is a very full-on set up. What is relevant is that it did not cost much (don't include the cost of the JessEm guides, which are excellent but a little luxury). It is difficult to total, as some parts, such as the aluminium insert plate, was purchased about 3 years ago, as was the Router Raizer lift, and the MuscleChuck router bit change.
 
The base for the router table was a laminated high pressure MDF kitchen bench off cut from a kitchen maker ...
 
[Image: F9.jpg]
 
This was build into the outfeed of my Hammer K3 sliding table saw ...
 
[Image: RTF1a.jpg]
 
[Image: RTF2a.jpg]
 
These aluminium plates are excellent. After 3 years of hanging the heavy Elu, there is no signs of any dips. The surface remains flat, flat.
 
The Elu below, minus handles, with Router Raizer attached ...
 
[Image: RTF4a.jpg]
 
Above the plate, the MuscleChuck allows for changing bits and easy bit-holding. I built a handle for the Router Raizer from a cut-down socket wrench. This enable fast spinning as well as fine adjustments with the fence close by.
 
[Image: RTF5a.jpg]
 
The heart of the fence is made for 8020 extruded aluminium (80mm high and 20mm wide). I comes in 1m lengths, and this fence is 600mm long.
 
[Image: RTF6a.jpg]
 
Note that the slots of this extrusion use different T-bits ...
 
[Image: RTF13-2a.jpg]
 
The only other part I bought in were the sub-fences, since these are phenolic-coated, and the dust port.
 
[Image: RTF7a.jpg]
 
The subfences. Also note that the dust collection port in the mainfence was made with a 2 1/4" hole saw ...
 
[Image: RTF12a.jpg]
 
The Jessem guides, and the bit guard I made ...
 
[Image: RTF8a.jpg]
 
[Image: RTF9a.jpg]
 
Made in two sections and superglued together ...
 
[Image: RTF10a.jpg]
 
The rear of the fence, with the dust port, and sub-fence adjusters ...
 
[Image: RTF11a.jpg]
 
The reason for bolting on the dust port was not simply to make it possible to remove, but this enabled the T-track to be plugged ...
 
[Image: RTF13-1a.jpg]
 
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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#12
The (very stiff) UHMW fence bracket is temporary ...

[Image: RTF13a.jpg]

and will be replaced by these brackets with fine-adjuster (only needed on one side) ...

[Image: RTF13b.jpg]

There is adjustment built into the brackets to ensure that the working side of the fence is square to the table ...

[Image: RTF14a.jpg]

I hope that this provides some ideas for your build.

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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#13
A very nice addition to the table saw work space. Should provide lots of good use over the years to come.
Grant

"GO BUCKEYES"
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#14
(09-07-2020, 12:02 PM)Derek Cohen Wrote: The (very stiff) UHMW fence bracket is temporary ...

[Image: RTF13a.jpg]

and will be replaced by these brackets with fine-adjuster (only needed on one side) ...

[Image: RTF13b.jpg]

There is adjustment built into the brackets to ensure that the working side of the fence is square to the table ...

[Image: RTF14a.jpg]

I hope that this provides some ideas for your build.

Regards from Perth

Derek


Nice design and setup Derek! BTW, probably one of those marginal questions but what are those JessEm devices on the fence? Are they stops for the material?

Thanks,

Doug 



[Image: RTF8a.jpg]
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#15
Very nice. Don't have a Hammer and I bought a used Jess-Em fence. The fence build got me thinking though. Thanks for the pics.
Thanks,  Curt
-----------------
"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
      -- Soren Kierkegaard
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#16
(09-08-2020, 11:18 PM)Tapper Wrote: Nice design and setup Derek! BTW, probably one of those marginal questions but what are those JessEm devices on the fence? Are they stops for the material?

Thanks,

Doug 



[Image: RTF8a.jpg]

Hi Doug

The JessEm guide does two things simultaneously:

1. The wheel will only rotate in one direction, which prevents kickback.

2. The wheel is angled inward, towards the fence, which locks it for a clean cut (as there cannot be any wavering) ....

[Image: JessEm.jpg]

Similarly, on the table saw, this results in a perfect jointing, glue-ready rip cut ...

[Image: Y1a.jpg]


The angled wheel ..

[Image: FenceF.jpg]

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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#17
Nice build.  Top notch as always.
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#18
Got it - thanks; very nice setup! 
Yes

Doug
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#19
Video 
I was watching an old episode of This Old House and they were using a site-built router table.  It was simply a sheet of plywood on two saw horses.  The router was attached directly to the plywood so no insert. 

The fence was another piece of about 3" x 18" piece of 3/4" plywood with a single screw holding it in place at one end and allowed to swivel.  A bar clamp was used to anchor the free end. 

I am guessing it was 3/4" thick ply, so that would reduce the depth available for the bit, but if that is not an issue, pretty neat. 

He also had a site built sled for making stiles and rails. 


I am not saying that this is as good as purpose built router table, but pretty neat in any case.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#20
My first router table was like that. Hell, my first table saw was a circular saw stuck through a plywood panel, with a board for a fence. I have always made my own router tables. Started doing this 30 years ago. Basic works. Simple works. Ultra fancy is not needed. This one was just a little more fun to build.

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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