Saw Handle Finish
#41
(09-18-2020, 12:53 AM)Pedder Wrote: A reminder that when Frank Klaus was still working at woodworking and he started to do articles and videos for FWW some 25 years ago he used a 12" Disston #68 gents saw to cut his drawer dovetails. 
There is no question that he was efficient with it. I think gents saws are greatly underappreciated. As the saying goes, it's the Indian, not the arrow. ( I suppose that phrase might not be PC anymore) 




 
We never was asked for a saw with that technique. Our design relates to our heavy spines. When the hang is too high it got hard to start the saw otherwise.

For halfblinds I would take a gents saw. Maybe even with some pull teet at the fron of the saw.
[Image: image1.JPG]

Cheers
Pedder
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#42
I actually learned to cut dovetails with an inexpensive Crown Gents saw. Still have it and never noticed an issue using it, except that it needs sharpened.
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#43
The only way I can cut well-fitted dovetails is with a Gents saw.   It made a big difference when I went away from a pistol-grip saw.  Your results WILL vary !

Chris
Chris
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#44
Pedder, of all the gent saws I have seen, or used, yours is the nicest looking but, importantly, the most logical design. That "ball" handle looks like it may be pushed with the palm of the hand. But here is the issue: it is not as ergonomic to push as the average Western pistol grip. Pulling is another matter. It would work/pull well, but we are looking at the design for a push saw, and the pistol grip is by far the less fatiguing design.

So what goes into the design of a pistol grip, say for a dovetail saw? We will accept that variations are required as each user has a different size hand and personal preferences. What areas do you consider important? Post a picture of your favourite design, but be sure to describe these features as well.

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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#45
Well...all well and good..
Rolleyes ..question was, though.....what IS the finish?
Confused
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
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#46
(09-18-2020, 10:55 AM)bandit571 Wrote: Well...all well and good..
Rolleyes ..question was, though.....what IS the finish?
Confused

............
Ummmm...Consensus seems to be Tru-Oil which I believe was decided on the first page...We are now arguing about the ergonomics.
Rolleyes
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#47
Fine..until you also factor in ...Uncle Arthur (itis).....kind of puts a "crimp" on things....hard to grip a skinny handle, after all...
Winkgrin
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
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#48
(09-18-2020, 10:55 AM)bandit571 Wrote: Well...all well and good..
Rolleyes ..question was, though.....what IS the finish?
Confused

I would say, what ever you have on hand. whether it is Tru-Oil, Waterlox, Antique Oil, or even plain old BLO.  We over think a lot of this stuff.
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#49
(09-18-2020, 10:47 AM)Derek Cohen Wrote: So what goes into the design of a pistol grip, say for a dovetail saw? We will accept that variations are required as each user has a different size hand and personal preferences. What areas do you consider important? Post a picture of your favourite design, but be sure to describe these features as well.

Derek,

this could go for pages but my english is rusty and I am a slow writer on the keyboard.

I'm not a designer and I never learned a lot about the theory of handle making.
I loved the look of old saws and wanted to create my own.
I startet with old english tenon saw wich I rehandled.
Then I met Klaus and the things got faster. But not like we sat down and learned a lot of design. We did "design".

Our actual designs are the result of long fights between Klaus and me.
Klaus wanted a higher hang and a faster looking saw (ferrari) and I wanted a sturdy one the Range Rover.
I think we endet up with a set of really good looking and good working designs, at least that is the feedback from our customers.

So I don't have a concept in saw design and my last design is a few years old.

just a few loose thoughts:

Inside corner make a saw expensive, because it takes longer to sand it well

The wight of the spine and the rake influence the handle design a lot ond vice versa.
More wight, higher hang angle and less rake are more aggressive.
In the beginning we made saws that aggressive, that you could not start them in soft pine.

The shape of the hand part is best close to an olive. From side view and in diameter.
But that is difficult to draw in a handle with horns.  
My profile picture has a bubble in the middle, that you critized a few years ago on ukw.
As you can see above i reduced it a bit.

Cheers
Pedder
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#50
Your gentleman's saws look gorgeous Pedder. I am unable to speak to function. However, the finish regimen you follow speaks volumes regarding their photogenic appeal.

Thanks for your contributions.
Heirlooms are self-important fiction so build what you like. Someone may find it useful.
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