How should I sharpen this scorp?
#4
I just bought a used no-name scorp for $15. Now that I want to sharpen it I notice the blade edge in the center is worn and no longer even. Seems like I should flatten everything back to make it even but I don't want to lose too much of the current edge. I've include this picture which shows it's not much maybe a 1/16 or so, maybe less but noticeable to me. 

This is my first scorp. Should I sharpen as is or put the effort in to make everything even? Would the unevenness affect it's use?
   
   
Was living the good retired life on the Lake. Now just living retired.
Reply
#5
(09-18-2020, 11:42 AM)Eurekan Wrote: I just bought a used no-name scorp for $15. Now that I want to sharpen it I notice the blade edge in the center is worn and no longer even. Seems like I should flatten everything back to make it even but I don't want to lose too much of the current edge. I've include this picture which shows it's not much maybe a 1/16 or so, maybe less but noticeable to me. 

This is my first scorp. Should I sharpen as is or put the effort in to make everything even? Would the unevenness affect it's use?

..................
I would not bother to "even up" the edge because you are not likely to ever use the entire length of the blade anyway...but I would use a 1/2" sanding sleeve on my Dremel to start the sharpening process...Follow that with round slip-stones for the edge you want. Not having slip-stones you could wrap fine sandpaper around a piece of dowel and go through the grits until it is sharp enough.
Often Tested.    Always Faithful.      Brothers Forever

Jack Edgar, Sgt. U.S. Marines, Korea, America's Forgotten War
Get off my lawn !
Upset





Reply
#6
I agree with Jack. You're not likely to notice a big improvement in performance if you were to level that out. Probably best to focus on just getting it sharp. Fortunately the bevel is on the convex side, so you can run a regular sharpening stone over it. (Or, like Jack says, use a powered option.) It's going to take some time to raise a burr all the way around, so use a coarse abrasive at first. Coarse sandpaper stuck to a flat piece of hardwood would not be out of order. The inside will want to be kissed with either a finer slipstone or very fine sandpaper (say 1,000K or finer) on some kind of convex surface. A section of PVC pipe works really well. It helps to have some kind of strop on a convex surface so you can get at the inside. Keep it handy, because once you get this thing sharp, you're going to want to keep it that way. Touch up the edge frequently with your finest stones and the strop, and you'll save yourself a lot of resharpening work in the long run.
Steve S.
------------------------------------------------------
Tradition cannot be inherited, and if you want it you must obtain it by great labour.
- T. S. Eliot

Tutorials and Build-Alongs at The Literary Workshop
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)

Product Recommendations

Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.