Kitchen knives...which ones to buy or build?
#31
(11-07-2020, 04:06 PM)AHill Wrote: Unless a knife edge is significantly damaged, or you are using a very fine grit belt, I don't think using a belt sander on a regular basis for kitchen knives is advisable.  Belt sanders can consume a knife's edge very rapidly.  No problem if you're using belts with grits like 1200 or above.  Especially with some of the more typical knife steels out there.

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No problem if you're using belts with grits like 1200 or above. Especially with some of the more typical knife steels out there.

/\ this....stay away from 600 and below unless you are repairing an edge.You will be removing too much metal unnecessarily.
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#32
At the speed a typical belt sander moves, I'm finding that a leather belt with green compound will restore a very dull edge by the time it starts to heat up
Thanks,  Curt
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      -- Soren Kierkegaard
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#33
(11-12-2020, 07:44 PM)cputnam Wrote: At the speed a typical belt sander moves, I'm finding that a leather belt with green compound will restore a very dull edge by the time it starts to heat up

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Curt, I think that if more "edge challenged" woodworkers knew how true your statement was, there would be a lot less discussion on here about sharpening problems, waterstones etc..
Big Grin ..You can buy a cheap belt grinder/sander from HF for about half the price of a Japanese waterstone. Buy a $20.00 leather belt to go with it , watch a Youtube video on how to use it and you're good to go!!
Winkgrin
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#34
Jack, I must admit that I have only learned how to do knives and similar long edges. Chisels and planes blades seem to require a platen which is either worthless or non-existent in the current HF models and not of much value on my Delta unit. OTOH, the buffer is holding out much promise for chisels and plane blades.
Thanks,  Curt
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"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
      -- Soren Kierkegaard
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#35
(11-14-2020, 08:21 PM)cputnam Wrote: Jack, I must admit that I have only learned how to do knives and similar long edges.  Chisels and planes blades seem to require a platen which is either worthless or non-existent in the current HF models and not of much value on my Delta unit.  OTOH, the buffer is holding out much promise for chisels and plane blades.

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Curt I have a HF unit that I bought to expiriment with about six or eight months ago, but since I broke my shoulder and wrist, I haven't felt strong enough to do anything with it.Maybe I can get to it soon and see what you are referring to with the platen. I have been wanting to add a strip of glass to the platen to reduce the friction and make the belts ride hard against it. I would like to do that with all my one inch sander grinders..I have tried using a strip of ceramic tile temporarily held in place on my homemade grinder and it reduces the friction significantly..In addition, the belts have to be strongly tensioned to reduce the tendency for them run without "going wobbly" when the edge is moved across them,...That tendency can also be reduced by crowning the drive wheel a little more.

I agree that leather wheels and muslin buffs work well on chisels and plane irons..I have a really excellent "felt" wheel that does an outstanding job on small wood carving knives...I bought some "unknown" material at a flea market...It is in a two foot wide roll and is about 1/4' thick...I assume it to be felt, but no way of knowing for sure..It holds a charge of chrome oxide much better than muslin, and doesn't get "fuzzy" like muslin can....I still have a hard felt wheel on my 73" belt grinder motor shaft.
Often Tested.    Always Faithful.      Brothers Forever

Jack Edgar, Sgt. U.S. Marines, Korea, America's Forgotten War
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#36
Oh Wow! Thanks for the glass idea Jack - I love it!
Thanks,  Curt
-----------------
"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
      -- Soren Kierkegaard
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#37
(11-15-2020, 09:10 PM)cputnam Wrote: Oh Wow!  Thanks for the glass idea Jack - I love it!

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Curt, here's a link to a Youtube video that explain how tempered glass can be adhered to the platen using double-sided tape..If you use tape to install the glass, when it wears you can remove it and turn it over and use the other side...You can buy the needed size tempered glass on Ebay under knife making supplies.

IMO ceramic tile will work also {based on my experiment with it}  You can buy tlle about one inch wide at Home Depot. and it's a lot cheaper than tempered glass.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hG0nzdxDkaM

edit...I just found a youtube showing how to use a ceramic tile for a platen,,,,,,,,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SvbGy_SqMtc
Often Tested.    Always Faithful.      Brothers Forever

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#38
Those are interesting videos that you link. Thank you. I have a question, and please nobody laugh. Why is it when you see people using belt grinders sharpening knives they lead the knife edge into the incoming belt.? And then they turn around and have the edge pointing away from the incoming leather strop. It seems to me that leading your edge into the belt either the sandpaper or the leather is dangerous. Please correct me and tell me how this is not dangerous. Thank you, and again if you do laugh just laugh quietly.
"Life is too short for bad tools.".-- Pedder 7/22/11
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#39
(11-16-2020, 09:27 AM)Scott W Wrote: Those are interesting videos that you link. Thank you. I have a question, and please nobody laugh. Why is it when you see people using belt grinders sharpening knives they lead the knife edge into the incoming belt.? And then they turn around and have the edge pointing away from the incoming leather strop. It seems to me that leading your edge into the belt either the sandpaper or the leather is dangerous. Please correct me and tell me how this is not dangerous. Thank you, and again if you do laugh just laugh quietly.

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Not laughing at all, Scott...It "can" be dangerous for a few reasons...If the belt is "slack" the cutting edge can "dig" into the fabric belt..If the belt has any fraying along it's edges, it can "catch" the edge and if the person does not have a good grip and steady hand, the knife can snag the belt, all of which can violently take the knife {or tool} out of your grasp and there's no telling where the knife will go when that happens. It has happened to me and that is a good reason to have a belt rotating AWAY from the cutting edge.. I have one machine that I can choose which way the belt rotates, one factory made machine that turns away from the edge and one I made that runs at low speed AWAY from the cutting edge..By FAR, IMO the safest and best way is for the belt to turn "away" from the cutting edge and with the  HF machine and clones, you can lay the machine on it's back and use it in that manner..,There are Youtube videos showing how that can easily be done...I will see if I can find one and post the link here.
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Here's a simple solution..........

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J3KuS8K37YA

Here's one a little more complicated but very effective....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aOTgshqIq54

One more showing the grinder being used on it's back...Note...When used in this manner with the belt rotating away from the edge, a leather strop can put a mirror polish on your edges in minutes...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l54p0CJli_s

And finally, more improvements.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-84-QeuHMVo
Often Tested.    Always Faithful.      Brothers Forever

Jack Edgar, Sgt. U.S. Marines, Korea, America's Forgotten War
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#40
Thank you so much for the time and effort it took to respond and link those videos. And thanks again everybody for the responses to this thread.
"Life is too short for bad tools.".-- Pedder 7/22/11
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