rehab on a Stanley #7C
#11
I've got my grandfather's #7C, and it needs a little help.  I don't know if it matters, but based on this guide: Stanley Bailey Types 1-20 (1867-1967) (and my memory from two days ago when I tore it down), I believe it to be a Type 14.  Judging by the length of the iron, I don't think that he ever used it much, although somewhere along the line it did get some white paint drips on it.  I see no cracks on the sole or plane body anywhere, which is good, and no significant rust or pitting on the plane itself, other than that old iron patina.  There is some rust on the iron and breaker, but both can be easily cleaned up with a wire wheel. 

What really concerns me is that there is some damage to the frog, and I'm not too sure what to do about it.  At some point before I got it, the brass adjusting nut and threaded rod went missing, and there is a chip out of the threaded socket on the back of the frog.  I suspect that those are related.  Fortunately, sometime in the last few years, someone gave me a replacement knob and rod, but I've never been able to get the threaded shaft to start into the hole.  FYI, both the shaft and hole are left hand threaded, and they appear to be the same threads. 

Other than that, the only damage I can find is that the horn is broken off of the end of the tote and the iron is slightly bent down toward the tote.  I wonder if maybe it was dropped at some time and landed on the iron and tote?  That might explain both issues.  Anyway, I'm thinking that the iron can be flattened pretty easily on an anvil, and even if it can't, it isn't bent enough to effect the function of the plane.  While the tote is usable, it's not comfortable, so it'll probably need to be replaced.

I'll try to get pictures of it either tonight or tomorrow night, but thought I'd post this while it was fresh in my mind.  Maybe someone will have an idea of what I can do to get the rod back into the frog.

Thanks,
dow
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#12
There is a suggestion....try the other end of that bolt....as sometimes the first end will get messed up when it came loose.....other end will have "fresh" threads.

Had to use this on a #4's frog...
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#13
(11-04-2020, 09:41 AM)bandit571 Wrote: There is a suggestion....try the other end of that bolt....as sometimes the first end will get messed up when it came loose.....other end will have "fresh" threads.

Had to use this on a #4's frog...

I hadn't thought of that, since the one end is domed and the other end isn't.  I'll give it a try and report back. Thanks!


Hopefully I can get some pictures tonight.
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#14
There have been quite a few posts here of people who have rehabbed totes with the top of the horn broken. In some ways, that sort of repair adds sentimental value to a tool.

More WNers than I might have guessed maintain plane boneyards. Once you figure out the type, it might be productive to post a WTB down in SnS for a complete frog.
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#15
Thanks iclark, I'll do that.


Okay, finally some pictures.

Here's the damage to the frog, which has 468 stamped into the casting right next to my finger.
[Image: y66trcnh]

Bandit571, I tried swapping ends like you recommended, and I was able to get it to try to grab the threads, However, it only turned about a 16th of a turn before the threads started to bind. I'm not sure if the threads don't match, or if it's because of the damage to the socket itself, but I'm suspecting the socket damage is it.

and here's the tote:
[Image: yxv879lc]

and here's a side view of the iron.  you can kinda see where it's bent about 2" down from the top.  Not a bad bend, but I'll probably try to flatten it anyway.  Not sure if it matters, but the iron has the letter L stamped on the back about half way down to the right of the slot.
[Image: y5qsd2rj]

I'll try to get more pictures as the cleanup goes on.
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#16
Seems to me, that it was made by Sargent.....
Confused
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#17
(11-05-2020, 12:59 AM)bandit571 Wrote: Seems to me, that it was made by Sargent.....
Confused

That what was made by Sargent?  The plane is definitely a Stanley #7 C.
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#18
Sargent cast a small pad right behind the frog, and in front of the tote....and cast the model number into that.  Both of my Sargent No. 414 VBms have a 414 in that pad.

Sargent also use Mahogany for their handles..

Ohio Tool Co. and Sargent use a twisted lateral lever....as did Union.....just depends on which way the twist was made.   Stanley bought out Union about 1920...used up all of their plane parts..and closed the doors...may have done the same to Ohio Tool Co. as well...

Actually..I have both a Stanley No. 7c, Type 9 and an Ohio Tool Co. No. 0-7.....on the bottom shelf of my Plane Til...
Cool
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#19
(11-06-2020, 12:38 AM)bandit571 Wrote: Sargent cast a small pad right behind the frog, and in front of the tote....and cast the model number into that.  Both of my Sargent No. 414 VBms have a 414 in that pad.

Sargent also use Mahogany for their handles..

Ohio Tool Co. and Sargent use a twisted lateral lever....as did Union.....just depends on which way the twist was made.   Stanley bought out Union about 1920...used up all of their plane parts..and closed the doors...may have done the same to Ohio Tool Co. as well...

Actually..I have both a Stanley No. 7c, Type 9 and an Ohio Tool Co. No. 0-7.....on the bottom shelf of my Plane Til...
Cool

Mine has the model number cast at the heel end behind the tote.  Between the tote and the frog it has the patent date: U.S.PAT / APR-19-10.  There's a ring around the base of the front knob.  According to what I've been able to find, this indicates a type 14 plane, made 1929-1930.  As for the lateral lever, it's straight

On the frog, do you think that there's any chance of maybe chasing the threads and using the post I've got, or do I need to go looking for a replacement frog?  Here's a close-up of the damage.

   
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#20
Looks like it has been "cross-threaded" and that caused the break-out......
No

problem?    Finding a left hand thread tap the same size and pitch.....
Confused

Or...chase the hole and the wheel with a 1/4" 20 tap, and use a 1/4" -20 piece of All-thread rod to replace the original rod...then use thread locker (red) to lock the new rod in place....
Confused
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