Need suggestions on narrowing kitchen cabinet door

[TDKPE]

DW wants to get rid of the trash compactor we had installed with the new kitchen some many years ago that only I use, for dry carboard only.  

I happen to have a spare door, of the correct 30-1/2" height, to use to make a trash can pullout 'drawer', while making what needs to be made for the toe space to match the rest.  I have some of the original finished cherry lumber they left behind.

Problem is, the door is 18" wide and I need it to be 15" wide, more or less.  The stiles are 2-1/4" wide, so it looks like there's just enough meat to essentially cut the door just shy of where the panel meets the stile.  But how would I reattach the two halves after cutting out what needs to be cut out?  Try to match the joint?  I'd reeeeally like to not have to refinish this door, but I rather doubt I can match the pieces to where nothing will have to be done to flatten the joints, which means refinishing.  

The panel is raised in the back, but nobody will see that, so I'm not too concerned about matching that aspect other than making it thin enough to fit the groove.  But I could use some advice on making this about 3" narrower.  

   

   

   

[fredhargis]

If I could match the rail stile profile, I think I'd do as you said. Cut one stile off, reduce the width and recut the profiles. the stiles you removed would just have to have the existing cuts cleaned out with the re-cut. But that's only possible with a good match, adn  don't think the one you showed is it. It looks more to me like the Freud 99-270 set. Thsis is it:

   

[TDKPE]

I think you're right, that's not the right profile.  The one you posted is closer, but it's not tapered, and the corners aren't rounded.

I was looking also at this Corrob set (#29 plus #30), which is cheap and fits my little shaper, but that profile isn't right, either.

https://corobcutters.com/shaper-profiles...door-stick

   

Here's a slightly better shot of the joint.  If I can't match the joint exactly, this isn't going to work.  

   

As a last resort, I guess I could just remake the door, and maybe salvage the panel.  

[fredhargis]

Looking at that second shot of the profile, I doubt you'll find an exact match with stock cutters. The plan b of making stiles rails, and reusing the panel may be a good option. Of course then you be matching finishes, the one on the panel to something you do to the new rail/stile assembly.

[Cooler]

I think it will be no more work, and fewer headaches to just make a new door.

[TDKPE]

I think you guys might be right.  

But that leads to problem number 2, which I have to face anyway - how to match the finish.  I don't even know what they're finished in.  

Finishing is soooo not my strong suit.  

[Stwood_]

Salvage the panel and remake the rail and stiles. If the cutters don't quite match it shouldn't matter much.

On the finish, just wing it. Lol.
Do you have a Sherwin Williams store nearby? They could help on the finish color.

[TDKPE]

Salvage the panel and remake the rail and stiles. If the cutters don't quite match it shouldn't matter much.

On the finish, just wing it. Lol.
Do you have a Sherwin Williams store nearby? They could help on the finish color.

The only part of the joint anyone will see is the profile where it meets the panel, which shouldn't be hard to get close.  The view from the top will be hidden by the counter overhang, unless the 'drawer' is pulled open.  But then, who's going to notice a difference between that and the shorter cabinet doors, under the drawer fronts?

We do have a S-W right down the street in fact.  Sounds like time to experiment with color and finishes.  Maybe try out my Earlex HVLP that I've never used.  Finishing just isn't my thing, I'm afraid.  

[jteneyck]

I did a repair like this on a passage door.  I cut inside the stile on one side so I could get the panels out.  Then you cut jack miters on the ends of the stile to accept the rails after they are cut down.  To do that I ripped off the sticking on the stile where the rails meet it:



Then saw away the 45 deg on the ends of the sticking to match the corresponding half on the ends of the rails.  



Cut the rails to final length and cut the 45 deg ends on those pieces of sticking.  Then cut mortises for loose tenons in the joints and glue it back together. 

I had to cut down the length of this door, too, so I had to cut off the stile rail joints on both sides, but you will only need to do it on one side.  Anyway, when you put it back together it will look perfect from the front and back.  The only difference will be the straight line joint at the top/bottom on the one stile compared the sticking profile on the uncut side.  



You will not have to repair the finish if your cuts are clean.

John

[TDKPE]

That’s an interesting option.  I rather like it.  The mismatched joints will only be visible with the drawer pulled out, so no worries there.  I was thinking about a butt splice just outside of the original, or either straight or wedge tongue and groove (for which I have cutters), but two vertical lines right next to each other would be pretty visible from the front.  

Your method, if I don’t botch it, would keep that single joint line (only) where it is.  Need to study it some more.