Fastest Way to cut slots in Composite Decking
#11
So what would be the fastest way to cut slots in composite decking to use hidden fasteners -   table saw, biscuit joiner, router in a router table.

The problem is we had a company install a composite deck 6 years ago -  I wasn't involved with the project, but when it was done it looked nice.  6 years later, I noticed one of the steps was sagging, and when I took off the step, I saw the joist below it was totally rotted away ,  took off a few more pieces of the decking, and a lot of the joists were soaking wet - meaning as I tried to lift them water came out like a sponge.  Did some research and they placed the boards too close together, and put facia all the way to the ground so there was no ventilation.  So I have to remove every deck board and reinstall.  They used a HID system of fasteners, which requires a special pneumatic gun (which costs a ton ) and special fasteners, so I decided to go with a hidden clip system  ( Camo Edge ).  So I need to groove both sides of about 150 boards that are 10 feet long.

One option is to set up a table saw, roller stands,  and fences, then run through each board with the face side to the fence, then rotate each of them end to end and repeat.  Seems like a lot of stacking and restacking, but not much walking.  The boards are so flexible, it may be hard getting the groove in the right location throughout the entire length

Option 2 is the biscuit joiner.  I can make a jig letting me know where to cut the slots ( they just have to be over the joists ) then cut slots on one side of the board, then turn it around end of end and repeat.  To make that work, I need to walk probably 8 feet from one end to the other 300 times.
I could also try to do it in place, the deck is only a few feet off the ground, but that would require stepping over the framing and the same number of steps, so that doesn't sound good.

Some sites suggest a router - but I wonder if I would burn it out running 3000 linear feet through the router table -  while the table saw is better equipped to handle that load, the advantage of the router table is that the pieces would be cut lying flat,  not on edge, so the groove would probably be more consistent.

Any input would be welcome.
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#12
Seems like if you used a router, you would still be walking that distance you mentioned. So, I wouldn't use a TS for the reasons you cited. Of the remaining 2 I like the router option best but that's just me. It would be tough on a biscuit joiner as well, but to me it seems like the router would be a little easier (and faster).....but it's early and I may not be thinking it through enough.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#13
Unless you will have a couple helpers, I think running 10 footers through the table saw will be very difficult to do accurately.
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#14
I have done both a router (hand held) outside and a biscuit jointer for a couple decks.

I prefer the biscuit jointer which I kept with me when installing; marked the locations cut the slots and installed the clips & board. Took only a minute or two on 16ft boards which I installed at a diagonal and only had to handle when I carried to the deck and slid to get enough room for the biscuit cutter.

The router worked well too and the composite cuts easier than most woods as it's soft like pine so the stress on the machine was not great. If you ran it all at once, then install would be quicker but you have to handle boards several times. Timbertech actually sells a bit to do this, which I still have someplace if interested; but it's just a slot cutter.

One thing to consider is using a edge trim to picture frame the deck and cover the cut ends. If you don't and run full length slots, they will be exposed.
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#15
(11-26-2020, 10:11 AM)jamesglenn Wrote: I have done both a router (hand held) outside and a biscuit jointer for a couple decks.

I prefer the biscuit jointer which I kept with me when installing; marked the locations cut the slots and installed the clips & board. Took only a minute or two on 16ft boards which I installed at a diagonal and only had to handle when I carried to the deck and slid to get enough room for the biscuit cutter.

The router worked well too and the composite cuts easier than most woods as it's soft like pine so the stress on the machine was not great. If you ran it all at once, then install would be quicker but you have to handle boards several times. Timbertech actually sells a bit to do this, which I still have someplace if interested; but it's just a slot cutter.

One thing to consider is using a edge trim to picture frame the deck and cover the cut ends. If you don't and run full length slots, they will be exposed.

James,  exactly what I was hoping to hear, someone who did it.  So did you put the board loose down on the deck, then biscuit join both side at one joist, go to the next then repeat,  or do you do some other method?
  I probably have a slot cutter somewhere, but i have a PC joiner and thought that would be easier to register. 

 I am getting the Corex screws for the picture frame and the last and first boards.  If anyone thinks the plugs will look obvious,  I can tell they don't, even when I knew where the joist is, we could only spot the plug by looking very closely, with your head a few inches above the board, and for about 20% of them,  I never saw them and didn't realize they were there until I got the rest of the board loose.
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#16
I've never done it but I would think the biscuit joiner would be the best choice. It's been my experience that when you run multiple boards through a router table, inevitably you get complacent at least once and the cut comes out just a little off. At least when I do it anyway. Think of it this way, with a biscuit joiner, 1 cut every 16". With a router, 1 long continuous cut for an 8' board. Seems to me like a lot less work using the biscuit joiner.
I no longer build museums but don't want to change my name. My new job is a lot less stressful. Life is much better.

Garry
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#17
I used a biscuit joiner to cut slots in my sisters decking.  When I was working with the Fiberon Techs they had Tiger claw fasteners that had to be pounded in and I cut some slots with my biscuit cutter and they were amassed at how easy that was.  That was before any decking had slots.
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#18
(11-26-2020, 03:02 PM)fixtureman Wrote: I used a biscuit joiner to cut slots in my sisters decking.  When I was working with the Fiberon Techs they had Tiger claw fasteners that had to be pounded in and I cut some slots with my biscuit cutter and they were amassed at how easy that was.  That was before any decking had slots.

Fixtureman,  how did you organize the work?  Did you lay the decking on the joists, then cut slots on both sides of the board, or is there some other method?  I don't want to obsesses about it, but figuring out the right approach could save me some time, since it is a pretty big deck, and there will be a lot of bending .   

 I had to remove the existing decking which was installed with HID fasteners -  it looks a little like a square cut nail, they use a nail gun to shoot it into the side of the decking angled down into the joist, and a little sharp tab sticks out, and the side of the next deck board is pressed into the tab.  So when I first tried to remove them, I would lock a vise grip on the exposed tab and hit it with a hammer to get it loose -  total pain in the neck, and it took forever.   After a few boards,  I decided to use a crow bar to see if I could just pry the boards up without breaking them, and it was 10 times quicker.    So I am trying to avoid a similar mistake in putting in the decking.
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#19
(11-26-2020, 12:08 PM)barryvabeach Wrote: James,  exactly what I was hoping to hear, someone who did it.  So did you put the board loose down on the deck, then biscuit join both side at one joist, go to the next then repeat,  or do you do some other method?
  I probably have a slot cutter somewhere, but i have a PC joiner and thought that would be easier to register. 

 I am getting the Corex screws for the picture frame and the last and first boards.  If anyone thinks the plugs will look obvious,  I can tell they don't, even when I knew where the joist is, we could only spot the plug by looking very closely, with your head a few inches above the board, and for about 20% of them,  I never saw them and didn't realize they were there until I got the rest of the board loose.

I basically did it as you noted. Laid the board down to rough the joist locations and cut the slots accordingly. Install the clips as required, move on to the next board. Least amount of board handling for me and seemed easier than routing the entire board which would require carrying it around. 

For the picture frame, I actually installed this first to set my perimeter; although probably not as efficient. But I was able to slot one side as needed for the hidden clips and then slotted the ends of the deck boards the intersected and slid them in as I went along. This allowed for hidden fasteners on the picture frame edges also.
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#20
I did this on our Ipe deck about fifteen years ago. This was before you could buy the decking with the hardware slot. 

I used a biscuit jointer. My deck was like yours, only 12" to 24" off the ground. All my boards were 16' and I just stood in one spot between a couple joists then slid the board left or right every 16" and cut the slots on each side. One slot on each side of the board for each joist location. I lined the previously cut slot up on the next joist. No measuring on most boards.


I would do several boards at a time and then install. Then move to a new spot. We staged the deck boards in stacks across the framing which saved time.

It really wasn't that bad but the deck was nearly 1,500 square foot so it did take some time. And the Ipe was hard enough that it did eventually dull the carbide cutter.

You could also use a slotting cutter in a shaper if you have one. Some roller in feed and out feed stands it should go pretty quick. Add a stock feeder and it will go fast.

Tim
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