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(12-08-2020, 08:47 AM)Dumb_Polack Wrote: I confess...I'm not usually a hand tool guy but I got this yesterday and am thinking about restoring it. Having never done it I went the the encyclopedia of fixing thing, YouTube, and found a few videos on how to do it. In one of the videos the guy mentioned a rust remover made by WD-40 sold @ Lowe's. Which rust remover do you use? Any other tips you can offer me would be appreciated.
My question is this worth restoring? I don't intend to sell it but if I were to restore it what would it be worth?
Is it worth restoring? - It looks complete and close to functional condition if not already there. The bottom and the blade edge are the only things that will really matter as far as using it. I guess short answer, yes, it's worth restoring but I don't think it really needs much unless you plan to sell.
As far as value, hard to say from the photos but as is, maybe $50-60 on eBay. Cleaned up properly $100-125 from my experiences earlier in the year. Sold two that started very close to yours and topped $100 pretty easily. Were it mine, I'd use a razorblade to "cut" any rust off of sides and sole of the body then clean it up with a soft wire wheel for the non-japanned surfaces as well as on any removable metal parts. Follow up with 320/400 paper that's already been used a little (with a hard steel block as a backer) on the sides and sole - always follow line of the sole and always go one direction, no back stroke. I've got a deburring wheel that I use sometimes on lever cap, etc. but in your case, doesn't look necessary. Gently remove any paint spatter on the wood and jappaning if there is any then wipe everything down with boiled linseed oil and put it back together. Sharpen the blade as needed and it'll look much nicer. Will work exactly the same as it did without the cleaning though.
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12-10-2020, 06:32 PM
(This post was last modified: 12-10-2020, 06:37 PM by gov.cheese.)
I really like these for removing rust on tools, especially for the flat surfaces on planes. Lot more control than spinning wire wheels and leaves a more natural look but a little more work. They also last forever.
Rust erasers
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Flattening the back is a boat load of work. Use the Charles Worth (?) back bevel method if you are going to keep the original blade.
Train to be miserable...
that way when the real misery starts you won't notice.
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12-11-2020, 02:30 PM
(This post was last modified: 12-11-2020, 02:36 PM by Snipe Hunter.)
Pre WW2 #7 with no cracks in the casting.. always worth restoring. Nice find. Lots of 6s out there, not nearly as many 7s in the wild.
Keep it away from a wire wheel. It will kill the value.
I made a cleaner with 4" PVC pipe and a cap on it. Drill a hole in the top so you can hang it. Fill with Evaporust and put the body in and take it back out tomorrow. Evaporust will bleach the steel and take out any oils in it so it will start rusting again quickly. I give them a good rub down with carnauba wax. Some purists are anti Evaporust. I'm not a purist.
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If your aim is to sell it, I'd do nothing at all to it. Most folks who buy vintage planes like that are capable of restoring it themselves, and I'm not sure you'll gain much in value by putting the effort into "restoring" it. If you do decide to restore it, I'd leave the body alone. I don't see much, of any rust (you didn't include a pic of the sole). I wouldn't want to risk removing any more Japanning of the body. The frog, chip breaker, and blade could stand some rust removal if you do plan to restore it.
Still Learning,
Allan Hill
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Too many replies are more worried about "re-sale"...
 ..when the OP merely intends this to be a USER. Clean it up, sharpen it up, get making decent shavings and put it to work...I did, twice...... How ever shiny the OP wants to make it, is up to the OP.
If you all ever get a $150 hand plane for FREE......
 half surprised that no-one has tried to "shame" the OP into selling the No. 7 so OP can go out and buy a brand new LV or LN No.7.......
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
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Still Learning,
Allan Hill
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OK, which of you has been planing down the gappy sidewalk joints around here ?
I've seen a number of these 'repair bevels' and they're really well done, each one a nice planar facet. I just don't know who or what has been doing them!
Chris
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Virtually all my planes were in that condition or worse when I got them.
As indicated, look the base over carefully for cracks, particularly around the mouth area. Cracks are an indicator that your time is best spent elsewhere. Salvage the removable pieces from the plane and discard the base.
Unless it's a complete derelict, I would skip the Evaporust. If the bed is rusty you can clean that up with small files and sandpaper. Go easy. The reason Cast Iron was used on these planes is because it's soft and easy to machine. You can take off a lot of material if you are not careful. DAMHIKT....
Use a a razor blade and then Scotchbright on the bottom and sides to get them smooth. You aren't interested in what it looks like, only that there is no surface rust. Have a look on YouTube on how to flatten a plane base.
If the blade/chip breaker are not salvageable, buy the replacement ones from Lee Valley. About $60 (they went up...) they are well worth not spending hours trying to resurrect a derelict blade/chip breaker combination.
Clean the remaining parts well. Scuff up the tote and knob and put a light coating of Watco oil on them. Once it dries, rub it thoroughly into the wood with your hands. The heat and oil in your skin will combine with the Watco to make a really rich, smooth finish on the wood.
Reassemble and tune the plane.
Good luck. I started this journey with a derelict Type 11 #8 that I got from my Dad.
Get a copy of Garrett Hack's Plane Book
"Tis a slippery slope....
chris
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(12-11-2020, 02:30 PM)Snipe Hunter Wrote: Pre WW2 #7 with no cracks in the casting.. always worth restoring. Nice find. Lots of 6s out there, not nearly as many 7s in the wild.
Keep it away from a wire wheel. It will kill the value.
I made a cleaner with 4" PVC pipe and a cap on it. Drill a hole in the top so you can hang it. Fill with Evaporust and put the body in and take it back out tomorrow. Evaporust will bleach the steel and take out any oils in it so it will start rusting again quickly. I give them a good rub down with carnauba wax. Some purists are anti Evaporust. I'm not a purist.
+1
I'm with Neil on this one. Too much rust on those plane parts to just give it a "touch up", sharpen the iron and make it a user IMO. Just depends on what you want your tools to look like when they're in your hands I suppose. If there are no serious defects or cracks in the casting that plane can be made to be quite handsome and a very nice user.
Evaporust will definitely be your friend.
Doug
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