Electric chainsaw excessive clutch wear
#31
How does the drive gear attach to the motor shaft?

It looks like there is a lot of shaft sticking up above the top of the gear.

If the drive gear is replaceable, then it should be adjustable.
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick

A wish for you all:  May you keep buying green bananas.
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#32
Looks like it sits on a one side flattened shaft. Then probably has a snap ring, which I can't see
Steve

Mo.



I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24


 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








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#33
I don't see anyway to adjust the distance between the shaft for the plastic gear (which is held on with a C ring) and the metal drive gear on the motor shaft.

Thanks
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#34
(12-24-2020, 02:18 PM)matzner Wrote: I don't see anyway to adjust the distance between the shaft for the plastic gear (which is held on with a C ring) and the metal drive gear on the motor shaft.

Thanks

Look at the OD diameter of the drive gear vs the ID of the plastic driven gear and it would seem as only 2 or 3 teeth would be able to engage at one time.  If the brake wasn't activated and the chain stopped from pinching what would stop the motor to keep from stripping out the plastic ?   While only 2 teeth may be stripped at a time over time I can see where overloading the chain or stalling would have this effect.   A gas saw has the clutch to absorb this issue.  Roly
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#35
A few more chapters:
Ordered what I think to be an OEM replacement for plastic gear.  It measures .5mm smaller ID and fits with much less slack on drive gear.
   

Did I mention I was not a very experienced chainsaw user?  When I was dissasembling to install above gear I noticed the chain was pretty dry.  So after further take apart I find
   

When I tried the oil pump nothing came out - so either tube is crimped or more likely the oil pump is bad.

And then I noticed that the bar sprocket which had been spinning freely was frozen.  After some lube it is less frozen, but not free.  Can't see any obvious pinch or debris.  This may be the cause of the plastic gear failure.

I take a few lessons from this escapade:
1) Buy a real chainsaw
2) Make sure the oiler is working
3) Make sure bar sprocket is spinning freely
4) Don't spend too much on power tools that weren't very good or costly to start with even to keep them out of landfill
5) Beware sketchy part manufacturers especially for moving and interlocking parts
6) Buy a real chainsaw

This community is awesome - thanks to all for the advice and input.
David

And bonus shot of the bowl made from walnut I cut before saw crapped out
   
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#36
Stihl still offers several electric saws. Depending on how much you use it, staying electric could be better in the long run.

Nice bowl!

Ed
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#37
(12-30-2020, 10:27 PM)EdL Wrote: Stihl still offers several electric saws. Depending on how much you use it, staying electric could be better in the long run.

Nice bowl!

Ed

Does anyone have anything good to say about Stihl electric chainsaws?  How about the M18 Milwaukee?

Thanks
D
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#38
I keep an electric just in case I need to trim up a blank on the lathe. I also use it for other light work in the shop. My gas saws are all used outside.
VH07V  
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#39
Nice bowl..
I'm not an electric fan...never had use for a elec one.
Steve

Mo.



I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24


 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








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#40
I've ran the m18 Milwaukee, very impressive for a cordless saw. No comparison between the Milwaukee and the 20v DeWalt (I have one), the red one is far superior.

Ed
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