Purchase advice

[measure once cut remeasure]

All good points. The SawStop is the choice. Seems pretty obvious. I am strongly looking at a Powermatic helical head jointer. Had one before that impressed me. The bandsaw from Grizzly is appealing. Glad to hear it has performed well. As for dust collection, I am looking for a portable cannister model, probably in the 3 HP range. Electrician comes tomorrow to install 230 V outlets. If he can set it up so I can use two outlets at once, I will go with 3 HP 1 phase for the dust collector. If I am limited to just a single 220 V outlet at time then I'll step down the dust collector to a 110V model with 1.5 HP. 

Still debating whether to go Pro or ICS model on the SawStop. Leaning towards a sliding table but not clear about it ye

A 3hp griz portable cyclone is rated at 15.9 amps using a 15"impeller.  A 3hp griz stationary cyclone is  rated at 22 amps using a 15.5" impeller.
The 3hp shop fox stationary cyclone that i have is also rated at 22amps and draws a ton of power at startup.
A 30 amp circuit is required for these two stationary units. 
I would assume the motor is the same between for the portable and stationary model.  A 1/2" larger impeller would increas electrical draaw, but i am a little skeptical at the 15.9 amperage versus 22 amps for the same horsepower.
I woould have at least one 30 amp circuit for a dust collector and maybe a second for a planer.  The cost of materials for a 30 amp circuit isn't much more than a 20 amp.
A stationary DC is alot more work to set up, but easier than moving a DC from tool to tool.

[Handplanesandmore]

Simon


Why the overarm and not the floating tube?
Is the 52" T-Glide worth the extra $100? Seems to me it would be.

52" T glide - yes. Worth the money.

I hate the floating arm, and have the overarm dust collection.

The floating tube - I needed to move the tube/shroud (with another saw) every time I changed the width of cuts (fence) or the thickness of cuts. The tube was heavy to move in and out. I've seen people not using the tube at all between cuts because it's a hassle to them.

With the overarm dust collection, nothing needs to be adjusted with the shroud as the shroud goes up and down by itself as you change the depth of cuts of the blade. The overarm dust collection leaves little gap between the shroud and the stock, giving better dust collection than the floating arm. The overarm dust collection performs less well only with edge cuts.

By the way, the overarm dust collection delivers the best if it's hooked up to a dust collector directly rather than through the diverter that comes with the saw.

Did anyone suggest adding the jessem guides? Check it out, too. I don't have it on my saw, but have used it a lot at another place, making cutting large sheets a piece of cake.

Simon

[barryvabeach]

Agree no reason to stick with one manufacturer, different machines have different features,  find what you like best. Another vote for the Sawstop,  I have the PCS, and love it.  When I was looking at it, a guy at the local woodcraft that I know said he would buy it even if it did not have the brake feature.  I agree, the build quality is great, the assembly instructions , the adjustability to tune it , and the manual are all heads and shoulders above the competition.  I went with a 17 inch Grizzly bandsaw, and it is a great machine for the price, though others like the Laguna.  I went with a Jet combi jointer planer, because I liked the features better than the similar Grizzly.

[fredhargis]

Victor, Simon is correct about the floating tube being, well, unhandy. But if you want good dust collection over the blade it's going to work better than the stock guard (when hooked to a strong DC). I have the original Excalibur (now the Sawstop) pickup, and it's even more unhandy than the newer models.....but almost no dust/chips escape it. The stock unit that came with my Sawstop wouldn't do nearly as good, even when hooked to a good vac. I wound up selling it to someone who wanted to put it on their Rigid contractor saw (that's apparently a common thing to do). So here's what I suggest: use the stock setup for a while and see what you get, then go to the "floating tube" if you want better duct collection, albeit at a cost of a little inconvenience.

[Cooler]

At the age of 72, if I were setting up again, I would consider a full Festool setup.  It is not uncommon in Europe, I have read. 

It is not a cost saver.  But it makes handling plywood sheets easier.

I have only a Festool saw.  With it I can back my mini-van onto my driveway, pull the full sheet of plywood out onto a roller stand, and then onto saw horses for cutting to size. 

With the Festool saw I can cut to exact size for end-use.  (Originally I was rough cutting and then finish-sizing on the table saw, but the Festool was accurate enough for finish sizing and it saves a step and saves time.  The cuts are very clean and chip-free.).


It also makes for a very flexible shop (that can travel easily).  Just one more option to consider. 

Go to the Festool Owner's Group forum for more information.  Be forewarned:  For some Festool users, Festool is tantamount to a "cult" and they can be very defensive about the products.  Almost all of which are of superior quality.

https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/index.php

[Handplanesandmore]

I agree the Festool or other brand tracksaws are good for sheet cuts. But that's almost where their benefits end They suck in repetitive rip cuts, narrow cuts esp, small pieces, resawing, etc etc. Their forum is full of threads about buying and trying fancy and pricey after market accessories to overcome their deficiencies as compared to a table saw. In fact, many of the tracksaw users end up having a table saw back or keeping the old one. Not to mention dust collection is much better on a table saw.

You can live with a table saw without a tracksaw, but not the other round unless you are mainly into cabinet making with sheet goods. Oh, their T55 is underpowered too for thick hardwood, 2" or more. For the costs of a T55, T75, mft, tracks, and all the expensive accessories? I'd be looking at a PCSish.

Like I say, get the Jessem guides for the tablesaw if lots of sheet goods are handled.
Simon

[jteneyck]

If full blown Festool were an advantage you would see cabinet shops ditching their stationary machines in favor of that approach.  None that I know have.  As Simon said, it's a system that works well for a small volume user of sheet goods.  If that's you, great, you've found your ideal setup.  But if you are a generalist like me a track saw system isn't going to cut it, so to say.  And for the price of their stuff you can buy some pretty sweat old iron.  To each his own.  

My only regret is not buying bigger stationary machines - and having a shop I could get them into.  A big sliding table saw would make handling sheet goods so much easier than breaking them down by hand and then cutting them on the TS, and eliminate the only benefit a track saw would offer to me.  If you handle much sheet goods a slider deserves serious consideration.  Not the dinky sliding table you can add to a cabinet saw, like Sawstop, etc.; a serious full blown sliding table saw that can handle a full 4 x 8 sheet.  

John

[TroutVictor]

The electrician is in the shop installing overhead lighting and 2 separate 220V 20A circuits as I type.

So far here's how the list is shaping up

1. TABLE SAW: SawStop 3HP Pro, 1PH, 230V, 52" T-Glide, ICS mobile base, overarm dust collector. Decision made to go SawStop. Open to configuration input.

2. DRILL PRESS: Grizzly 20" G7948 (120-V). Best guess, seems like the right choice, not fully convinced.

3. BANDASAW: Grizzly 17" G0513X2, 2 HP. Best guess, seems like the right choice, not fully convinced.

4. JOINTER: Powermatic 8", PL-882HH with mobile base. Decision made. 

5. DUST COLLECTOR: Unsure about this selection: Grizzly G0862, 3HP. Also looking at the G077, G077HEP and G0703.

I really appreciate tapping into the collective experience of this place. Don't be shy about steering me in the right direction. Thanks.

[Tapper]

You've gotten some good advice on equipment so far. I have a Sawstop PCS and am thankful I do every time I hit the switch.

Several years ago I opted for Shopfox brand jointer and planer. Bought the 8" jointer and later added a
Byrd head and the 15" planer with the Griz carbide cutterhead. No difference in cut between Byrd and Griz cutterheads IMO. Both tools have performed flawlessly and I would strongly recommend them.

Doug

[Cooler]

I agree the Festool or other brand tracksaws are good for sheet cuts. But that's almost where their benefits end  They suck in repetitive rip cuts, narrow cuts esp, small pieces, resawing, etc etc. Their forum is full of threads about buying and trying fancy and pricey after market accessories to overcome their deficiencies as compared to a table saw. In fact, many of the tracksaw users end up having a table saw back or keeping the old one. Not to mention dust collection is much better on a table saw.

You can live with a table saw without a tracksaw, but not the other round unless you are mainly into cabinet making with sheet goods. Oh, their T55 is underpowered too for thick hardwood, 2" or more. For the costs of a T55, T75, mft, tracks, and all the expensive accessories? I'd be looking at a PCSish.

Like I say, get the Jessem guides for the tablesaw if lots of sheet goods are handled.
Simon

I added measuring arms and I would say that the saw is as repeatable as a table saw once those are added to the equation.

https://tsoproducts.com/tso-parallel-guide-system/

https://youtu.be/79yc9snenas

I don't see how Jessem guides helps me to carry 4' x 8' x 3/4" sheet down to my basement.