Freud Glue Line Blades
#11
How do you guys like the Freud 30T glue line blades? I'm looking for a dedicated hardwood rip blade for my Jet JPS-10 wired for 220V. It has to be full kerf since the saw has a riving knife.

I already have a combo blade for crosscuts and plywood. I have a CMT 24T blade that I can use for really thick cuts.

My goal is a really smooth cut so I can cut back the amount of sanding after ripping.
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#12
I have one, and it's done well.

Assuming that the saw is properly tuned/aligned, I think burning is more a function of blade sharpness and perhaps residue buildup.

Regarding full-kerf blades:  I've been a "think-kerf" guy for many years and most of my current blades are Freud think-kerf combo blades.  However, I think I've bought my last thin-kerf blade.  Future replacements will be full-kerf, likely Freud.
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#13
I have one and if used as directed it has done a good job for me. You should be aware of the material thickness that this blade is rated for.
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#14
"Assuming that the saw is properly tuned/aligned, I think burning is more a function of blade sharpness and perhaps residue buildup.

Regarding full-kerf blades: I've been a "think-kerf" guy for many years and most of my current blades are Freud think-kerf combo blades. However, I think I've bought my last thin-kerf blade. Future replacements will be full-kerf, likely Freud."

I've not been getting much burning (I do if I use a combo blade), I just notice blade marks on the cut that I need to sand out. I would be happy if they are reduced.

When I first bought this saw, I had a good thin kerf combo blade from my old saw and tried to find a thinner riving knife. I gave up and bought a standard blade and sold the thin kerf blade.
Project Website  Adding new stuff all of the time.
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#15
"I have one and if used as directed it has done a good job for me. You should be aware of the material thickness that this blade is rated for."

I saw that it says up to 1". I'll keep my CMT blade for the rare thicker stuff or run multiple passes. Most of what I do is 1/2" - 1".
Project Website  Adding new stuff all of the time.
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#16
Quote:I've been a "think-kerf" guy for many years and most of my current blades are Freud think-kerf combo blades.  However, I think I've bought my last thin-kerf blade.


care to share why you've come to this conclusion ?
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#17
(01-02-2021, 11:07 PM)Cabinet Monkey Wrote: care to share why you've come to this conclusion ?

- Riving knife on my saw tends to have a small "hang" when the leading edge of the workpiece contacts it when using a thin-kerf blade.

- Less chance of blade deflection on long rip cuts or when making for tablesaw cove cuts.

- Better heat dissipation on long rip cuts with full-kerf blades.

- Don't have to account for blade thickness against fence settings if I'm swapping back and forth between thin-kerf and full-kerf blades.

I originally went thin-kerf since I was using a 1.5HP contractor's saw on the single 110V 15A circuit that used to power my garage-based shop.  Reducing the kerf resistance was an important factor to me then.  I have a 3HP saw now and plenty of power in the shop.
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#18
I had a 30T that produced beautiful edges that were probably glue ready but I always ran a plane over them so I quit using the blade. Wasn't worth the blade changing hassle.
Thanks,  Curt
-----------------
"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
      -- Soren Kierkegaard
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#19
(01-01-2021, 02:52 AM)lincmercguy Wrote: How do you guys like the Freud 30T glue line blades? I'm looking for a dedicated hardwood rip blade for my Jet JPS-10 wired for 220V. It has to be full kerf since the saw has a riving knife.

I already have a combo blade for crosscuts and plywood. I have a CMT 24T blade that I can use for really thick cuts.

My goal is a really smooth cut so I can cut back the amount of sanding after ripping.

I have 5. Fantastic rip blade.

Once Favre hangs it up though, it years of cellar dwelling for the Pack. (Geoff 12-18-07)  



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#20
My go to blade is a Freud P410 Fusion, 40 teeth.  How can a 30 tooth blade be considered glue line or glue ready?  A higher tooth blade should give a smoother finish, right, and I would think that a 60-80 tooth blade would give the smoothest finish? Or is the thinking that a 24 tooth blade is standard, so a 30 tooth makes it glue ready?
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