Anyone have the Sawstop sliding table?

[fredhargis]

There's one for sale not far from me at a good price. I have the room, but not sure I have the need (I do large panels with a track saw.). So, is this something to jump on?

[cpolubin]

I have one and I really like it.
When I'm crosscutting long stock the slide out part of the fence supports it.
I can cut deeper stock easily since it slides so far back from the front edge of the table so no need to drag out the flip stands for support.
I use it to square up large panels and table tops.
Heavier stock is easier to keep square than when using a regular miter gauge.
When needed the fence is easy to remove and replace.
I do very little sheet goods. When I do I do the rough breakdown with the track saw. For the final cuts I find it's easier to get precision cuts with the table saw. .

I wouldn't want to be without it.

Cliff

[fredhargis]

Thank you, the kind of info I was looking for.

[KC]

Thank you, the kind of info I was looking for.

Been many years ago when I was working with the mesquite outfit, but I put a sliding table on either a Grizzly 1023 or a JET Xacta saw (can't remember which one... had both at one point).  It was neat to have I guess, but I don't remember it being useful enough to consider getting one for myself.

[Ray Newman]

Which sliding table? There are two different SawStop sliding tables:

https://www.sawstop.com/table-saws/by-mo...scut-table

https://www.sawstop.com/table-saws/by-mo...ding-table

[fredhargis]

I didn't know there were 2, but it's the large panel cutter.

[cpolubin]

For clarity, I have the smaller crosscut table.

Cliff

[Handplanesandmore]

The large sliding table, roughly double in price, is what I'd get because the smaller one ---- good for crosscutting ---- can't handle wider sheets. Of course, if you don't deal with sheet goods a lot, the large sliding table just takes up space. Personally, I've only used the small sliding table at someone's place a couple of times, but not the large one.

Simon

[David G]

I have the smaller crosscut table and do like it.  The angle gauge is easy to set.  Bearings run super smooth. 
It takes a bit to get the sliding table level and flush with the saw table.
The biggest downside to me is that moving the fence close to the blade limits the width of long rip cuts.  Moving the fence further from the blade requires a minimum crosscut length.
And moving the fence close to the blade at an 22.5 angle will contact the blade when it is returned to zero degrees.  DAMHIKT.  Just learned this yesterday.

[cpolubin]

- The biggest downside to me is that moving the fence close to the blade limits the width of long rip cuts. Moving the fence further from the blade requires a minimum crosscut length.
And moving the fence close to the blade at an 22.5 angle will contact the blade when it is returned to zero degrees. DAMHIKT. Just learned this yesterday. -

David,

I'm sure you know this but for those who haven't used the table you can gain more rip width by setting the fence at 45 degrees. If you need more room loosening 2 bolts lets you remove the fence entirely. It's easy to realign when you put it back on. Loosening 2 screws that attach the fence to the miter head allows you to move the fence left and right. With any miter gauge on a Sawstop you need to double check clearance when shifting the fence. And I don't have to ask you how you know that.

I put a sacrificial fence on mine that extends past the metal fence. It angles down to 1/2" high for the last couple of inches to make it easier to slide under the dust collection blade guard. The extra depth keeps the flip stops from reaching the table so you have to attach a face to the flip stops to compensate.

Cliff