Question regarding Powermatic 3520A..

[Kingsroots]

Here's a picture of the inside of the box. They mounted it upside down for some reason too.

   

[iclark]

Thanks everyone that responded so quickly. I think I'll replace the single breakers with a 2 pole like suggested and see if I can either buy a replacement cover or just glue a piece over the cutout. Hopefully this thing starts up fine with no issues (crossing fingers).

Covering the hole ought to be good enough.

Based on the replies about what happens if only one breaker trips, I think that I would be inclined to plug it in as-is and verify basic functionality.

Set it for normal rotation and turn the speed all the way down, turn the breakers on (so that you don't accidentally flip just one on), plug it in, and slowly turn the speed up a bit (a few hundred RPM is good enough to test - a few thousand shouldn't hurt anything). Then turn the speed back down to zero, reverse direction switch. and turn the speed up again a bit.

That will verify the basic functionality of the headstock system.

It might be a different type of insulation, but double check the wire gauge/rating on that orange power cord. I am not sure what it should be for 220V/240V, but, if you post back here what the gauge and length is, I am sure that there are WNers who can verify. Alternatively, you can see if the orange wire gets hot after you turn for a while.

Listen for any ticking sounds at low speeds (often means that a pulley set screw is loose).

I recommend getting in the habit of always leaving the lathe in forward turning direction and turned down to zero rotation.

The holes in the lathe bed above the breaker box are for a tool holder if the bed is installed the right way around (headstock on the correct end of the bed).

Bed extensions for the 3520B (or, I think, the 3520C) will not work on the 3520A because of a design change in the thickness of the bed ways. I honestly do not know if the 3520B short bed extension can be mounted to the leg of the 3520A for turning large items or not.

It is pricey, but the PM caster kit works well on the 3520. I am _really_ glad that I got it. They go on sale at 10% - 15% off a few times a year along with other PM accessories.

[charliez]

To me it looks like it was just someone who used what they had. Access to the lug on the breaker could really light up your day. It was probably in a place where nobody else would be around so it was somewhat OK for it to be like that. I prefer to stick to standard wire colors. later down the road when you have issues, it will help you figure out the problem. White should ever bu used as a hot. I would replace the whole box and the incoming cord and make sure the plug on it was the correct type for its volts/amps.

BTW. Look up the remote stop button mod for that model. You will really enjoy it better. The model C has the upgraded remote stop. And I don't think the model A had an rpm readout. There are plenty simple ones available that are easy to install.

[iclark]

To me it looks like it was just someone who used what they had.  Access to the lug on the breaker could really light up your day.  It was probably in a place where nobody else would be around so it was somewhat OK for it to be like that.  I prefer to stick to standard wire colors.  later down the road when you have issues, it will help you figure out the problem.  White should ever bu used as a hot.  I would replace the whole box and the incoming cord and make sure the plug on it was the correct type for its volts/amps.

BTW.  Look up the remote stop button mod for that model.  You will really enjoy it better.  The model C has the upgraded remote stop. And I don't think the model A had an rpm readout.  There are plenty simple ones available that are easy to install.

You should note that using white for one of the legs was done by Powermatic. The black cord looks to be the original power cord.

There seems to be some discussion about whether that white is neutral or a 2nd hot since it is single-phase power obtained by using both phases supplied to a breaker panel. That discussion is above my pay grade, but I expect that the lathe met code when it was sold.

[Kingsroots]

Thank you iclark and charliez for your input on this. I changed out the 2 single pole 20 amp breakers for a double. I also replaced the faceplate. I'll have dedicated lighting where the lathe will be so I dont need the extra leg for a light. I will take the advise given and look up the remote off switch. I'm also interested in the rpm readout mod that would be helpful.

[charliez]

Goode deal. You actually cannot get 120 volts for a lamp out of the box because there is no neutral. A 200 can have just two hots and a ground and run fine. There is a youtube by Billy Burt I believe that added the remote to his and a rpm gauge is nothing more that a tachometer. You can find plenyt on Amazon that uses a simple reflective tape to count the revelutions without doing any fabrication other than mounting the eyeball reader/

[iclark]

Thank you iclark and charliez for your input on this. I changed out the 2 single pole 20 amp breakers for a double. I also replaced the faceplate. I'll have dedicated lighting where the lathe will be so I dont need the extra leg for a light. I will take the advise given and look up the remote off switch. I'm also interested in the rpm readout mod that would be helpful.

Sounds like good news. Please let us know how it goes.

FWIW, I always seem to want more light when I am turning.

I use an LED work light with tripod floor base behind the work and a goose-neck light with magnetic base to add more light inside of a bowl (especially, a closed-form bowl). The inside-bowl illumination shines on the far side of the interior (where I can see) rather than on the contact point of the turning tool.

When parting off, it can be helpful to put a white paper or paper towel on the ways to help see how much support is left. Remember that you do not have to part your turning completely off. A saw (with the lathe off) is your friend for doing the final parting. I had been using a nice gent's saw until I started doing pieces too large in diameter for it to reach. Now I use a nice pull saw that hangs on a hook on the grinder stand.

I highly recommend Johnson's Paste Wax on the ways for rust protection and to minimize finish sticking to the ways. Apply, give it a few minutes, and then buff it clear.

If you do any wet-sanding on the lathe (common with water for turning synthetics and with walnut oil for some woods), then it is a good idea to dry the ways thoroughly at the end of the day and then apply a fresh coat of wax. You can wait and buff it the next time that you use the lathe.

[Kingsroots]

Great info from everyone, very much appreciated.

[charliez]

"If you do any wet-sanding on the lathe (common with water for turning synthetics and with walnut oil for some woods),"

I will be making some kind of cover to go over my ways on the new PM for that time of the process. I don't know what yet but something simple yet effective.

[RustyN]

You should note that using white for one of the legs was done by Powermatic. The black cord looks to be the original power cord.

There seems to be some discussion about whether that white is neutral or a 2nd hot since it is single-phase power obtained by using both phases supplied to a breaker panel. That discussion is above my pay grade, but I expect that the lathe met code when it was sold.

Exactly. Also if you ever look at house wiring you will see a white wire used as a hot in a light switch is very common.