Is there a good reason to have two miter saw sets?
#21
Because you never know when you'll break one?
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#22
Good point on that. Hopefully never.
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#23
Need a "back-up", when one of the saws is out for a sharpening......
Winkgrin
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
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#24
I would like to know more about the maker of the miter box/style of the guides. Oh yeah, the saws, well, They are gorgeous!
Waiting to grow up beyond being just a member
www.metaltech-pm.com
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#25
(03-06-2021, 04:05 PM)Tony Z Wrote: I would like to know more about the maker of the miter box/style of the guides.  Oh yeah, the saws, well, They are gorgeous!

My saw? Thank you!

The boxes are Ulmia 348 F. Rare pieces, that aren't made anymore. F is for Fuchsschwanz, wich means hand saw or back saw.

Cheers
Pedder
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#26
Picture framers, who work with pre-finished molding and cannot hide a sloppy miter, have long used two miters.  In that way they can precisely set up each one to 45 degrees, a kind of setup that can be time-consuming.

For most of the trim work we do in woodworking a sled or a chop saw is accurate enough.

Here is a typical dual saw setup.  It is much cheaper than the other saw options for picture framing.

[Image: Clearmount-Measuring-System-UFE-3229.jpg]
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#27
That would be great to have a set up like that.  Seems they are missing the 90 degree saw in the middle though.
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#28
I sold my large MF. It is a carpenter’s tool. Overkill for moldings.

This is the tiny MF I have for small moldings ...

[Image: mitrebox4.jpg]

This is my other alternative ...

[Image: 1a.jpg]

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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#29
I like both of those options Derek.  Sadly, I only have space for the first one.
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#30
I guess it all depends on what type of Carpenter.......Rough Carpenters use them power saws...
Uhoh ...Finish Carpenters..
Confused ..not so much....I have a Stanley No. 2246 that I can take along...when I am doing stair railings and trim.....it is even good enough to do Crown Moldings, Window/door casings.   
Cool

The thing about my larger Mitre boxes.....They take less time to make a cut....than a puny little box does.....why?   Because you use the full length of those 26-30" saws on each stroke in the cut.   Compared to a 14" backsaw's cut......

No noise, compared to them powersaws....all sawdust just drops to the saw's base...instead of needing a dust collector ( more noise)   That Langdon No.75 of mine takes up about the same footprint size as a powered slider Mitersaw......

have 3 boxes set up, right now....a 90 degree crosscut ( and doesn't need a chuting board)  and 2 set to 45 degrees, one to each side of 0......I can just leave them set up, they will be ready to go as needed.   I don't require some sled I'd have to set up each time.   I can saw items all night long, and NOT wake anyone else up with the noise..

Compound miters?    The trick is to add a wedge to the deck, while swinging the saw to the angle needed.....

About the only thing they can't do....is long rip cuts....wrong saw teeth, less than 12" of room.

So...this old Finish Carpenter will just keep his mitre boxes....
Cool
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
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