2nd start cap in 2 weeks...
#15
(03-17-2021, 11:35 AM)fredhargis Wrote: He replaced the switch....the contacts on the old one were pretty badly burned. 

Assuming that's the centrifugal switch inside the motor, the contacts were probably welded shut.
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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#16
Okay, so this thread has got me thinking about my DC motor. You guys saw the thread where I replaced the 30 year old bearings inside.

The points on the centrifugal switch looked clean. No pitting, no carbon. I used to own motorcycles that ran points so I kinda figured it would be the same deal here, aside from not needing to worry about timing. Anyway, should I open the motor box up and check for a resistor across the contacts on the capacitor? I'm thinking that there might actually be one there because the points were clean.
Semper fi,
Brad

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#17
(03-17-2021, 12:22 PM)TDKPE Wrote: Assuming that's the centrifugal switch inside the motor, the contacts were probably welded shut.

That's what it was, and it looked plenty bad.

Brad, my motor has a resistor on the cap. Didn't seem to help me.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#18
(03-17-2021, 12:37 PM)®smpr_fi_mac® Wrote: The points on the centrifugal switch looked clean.  No pitting, no carbon.  I used to own motorcycles that ran points so I kinda figured it would be the same deal here, aside from not needing to worry about timing.  Anyway, should I open the motor box up and check for a resistor across the contacts on the capacitor?  I'm thinking that there might actually be one there because the points were clean.

New bearings after 30 years, and the contacts still look clean?  I’d leave it alone and move on.
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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