Overhead wire to shed
#11
I need to run an overhead wire to a shed. Now, there is a sub-panel mounted on a utility pole that is next to the shed, the sub-panel has 2 20v outlets that I will be removing as they are no longer required. The wire will be run from this sub-panel to the shed, the distance here is less than 10-feet. I plan on using UV rated UF wire and a steel cable to support the wire.

Questions are:

What size wire should I run? My thought is 10-3. Inside is going to be one circuit with 7 outlets and 2 LED lights.

Do I need a sub-panel inside the shed?

Do I need a mast on the shed for the wire? It's pretty close to a level run between the pole and the shed, maybe a 6-12" drop at most.

Anything else I should be considering?
Mike

I work on the 50-50-90 rule: If there's a 50-50 choice, I'll pick the wrong one 90% of the time!
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#12
The wire gauge should be for whatever the breaker you are putting in the subpanel. if you can use a 20 amp breaker then 12 gauge will be fine. 30 amp then 10 gauge.
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#13
(04-24-2021, 11:30 AM)Scouter Wrote: I need to run an overhead wire to a shed. Now, there is a sub-panel mounted on a utility pole that is next to the shed, the sub-panel has 2 20v outlets that I will be removing as they are no longer required. The wire will be run from this sub-panel to the shed, the distance here is less than 10-feet. I plan on using UV rated UF wire and a steel cable to support the wire.

Questions are:

What size wire should I run? My thought is 10-3. Inside is going to be one circuit with 7 outlets and 2 LED lights.

Do I need a sub-panel inside the shed?

Do I need a mast on the shed for the wire? It's pretty close to a level run between the pole and the shed, maybe a 6-12" drop at most.

Anything else I should be considering?

What size wire is feeding the 240 volt outlet now?

One circuit is easiest.  If you go more, it becomes a feeder, you will need to add ground rods and use a four wire system.
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#14
(04-24-2021, 11:54 AM)Splinter Puller Wrote: The wire gauge should be for whatever the breaker you are putting in the subpanel.  if you can use a 20 amp breaker then 12 gauge will be fine.  30 amp then 10 gauge.

Thanks.

Do I need a sub-panel in the shed, or is it okay just to run it to a switch to control the power inside?
Mike

I work on the 50-50-90 rule: If there's a 50-50 choice, I'll pick the wrong one 90% of the time!
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#15
The height of the conductor above the surface below will determine if you need a mast or not.
12' above a driveway
8' above a flat roof
no closer than 3' to a window
3' above a roof peak
10' above a deck or balcony and not closer than 3' to the deck or balcony
10' above a walkway or finished grade.




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#16
(04-24-2021, 11:30 AM)Scouter Wrote: Do I need a sub-panel inside the shed?

You're allowed to run one circuit to an outbuilding, which can be a branch circuit, or a feeder.  

If it's a branch circuit, you don't need grounding electrodes (ground rods typically for a shed).  If it's a feeder to a subpanel, with more than one circuit off that subpanel, you technically need grounding electrodes.

BUT, be aware that a multiwire branch circuit is still a single circuit, so you could run 12-3 (black, red, white, green or bare ground conductor) to the shed and have two 20A circuits in there, but it's still considered a single circuit to the shed.  No ground rods.
Tom

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#17
(04-26-2021, 06:07 AM)Snipe Hunter Wrote: The height of the conductor above the surface below will determine if you need a mast or not.
12' above a driveway
8' above a flat roof
no closer than 3' to a window
3' above a roof peak
10' above a deck or balcony and not closer than 3' to the deck or balcony
10' above a walkway or finished grade.




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#18
Snipe HunterThe height of the conductor above the surface below will determine if you need a mast or not.
12' above a driveway
8' above a flat roof
no closer than 3' to a window
3' above a roof peak
10' above a deck or balcony and not closer than 3' to the deck or balcony
10' above a walkway or finished grade.




Thanks, I measured things and the 10' is not a problem. The run will be 4' long from a switch box (existing) on a utility pole to a shed that sits on a parking lot. The run goes 4' over a lawn. I will need a mast that is 3' over the shed at the lowest point on the roof to remain level. From there it will go into the shed where the cutoff switch will be.

According to code, even though this is only 4' between the pole and the shed, I will need a messenger cable. The NEC does not specify size or makeup of the cable. Any thoughts on this?

Also, I can't find anything that specifies how the messenger has to be attached at the two ends. Are eye bolts sufficient?
Mike

I work on the 50-50-90 rule: If there's a 50-50 choice, I'll pick the wrong one 90% of the time!
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#19
(04-26-2021, 07:06 AM)TDKPE Wrote: You're allowed to run one circuit to an outbuilding, which can be a branch circuit, or a feeder.  

If it's a branch circuit, you don't need grounding electrodes (ground rods typically for a shed).  If it's a feeder to a subpanel, with more than one circuit off that subpanel, you technically need grounding electrodes.

BUT, be aware that a multiwire branch circuit is still a single circuit, so you could run 12-3 (black, red, white, green or bare ground conductor) to the shed and have two 20A circuits in there, but it's still considered a single circuit to the shed.  No ground rods.

Thanks. My plan is to run a single 10-3 wire from the outside switch box to a switch box inside the shed. From there two circuits, one for the overhead lights, one for the outlets. Currently they're just planning on 7 120v outlets, but I want to be prepared incase they ask for a 220v in the future. So, no grounding necessary.
Mike

I work on the 50-50-90 rule: If there's a 50-50 choice, I'll pick the wrong one 90% of the time!
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#20
(04-27-2021, 03:05 AM)EightFingers Wrote: I have an 8’4” reach. Guess I’d better be careful!

Is that 8'4" with your leg out at a right angle?
Mike

I work on the 50-50-90 rule: If there's a 50-50 choice, I'll pick the wrong one 90% of the time!
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