canless lights and the electrical code
#16
(06-06-2021, 05:14 PM)cams2705 Wrote: I was looking at these exact lights to use in my basement workshop.  I just installed the framing for the ceiling ... it's ~7'7" due to having to run under the HVAC trunks.

Can you tell me if these are bright enough.  I see that you can adjust the warmth of the light and usually like to keep it around 4,000K to keep the light from being too blue.  I'm just wondering if the ~1000 Lumens per fixture would be enough if I put 12 cans in the ceiling (16 X 20 shop) or if I would have to add another row of 3.

I was surprised how bright they are. I put one over the shower and it’s like a hospital room! I have that one set on the next to coolest setting. I put three down a long hallway and put those on the “warmest” setting. Still very bright!

Snipe H: Did you see a small 2” packet of screws? It’s tiny and easy to overlook. The screws are less than 1/4” long. The “attachment” is a long metal plate that attaches to the j-box which in turn is attached to the framing. That plate was stuck inside the instruction booklet.
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#17
(06-07-2021, 03:31 AM)EightFingers Wrote: I was surprised how bright they are. I put one over the shower and it’s like a hospital room!  I have that one set on the next to coolest setting. I put three down a long hallway and put those on the “warmest” setting. Still very bright!

Snipe H: Did you see a small 2” packet of screws? It’s tiny and easy to overlook. The screws are less than 1/4” long. The “attachment” is a long metal plate that attaches to the j-box which in turn is attached to the framing. That plate was stuck inside the instruction booklet.

I honestly don't remember. It's been about a year and a half since I put the last ones in.
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#18
(06-04-2021, 09:56 AM)EricU Wrote: There are a lot of led lights that go in a hole in the ceiling and have a remote junction box.  I see they sell brackets to attach the junction box to the light, but the standard installation is to attach the junction box to a nearby joist.  I'm curious if that is allowed by the code since the junction box isn't accessible without removing the light?

Just finishing installing 10 of these...Lithonia Lighting WF6 30K40K50K 90CRI MW M6 LED Color Temperature Selectable Ultra Thin Recessed Downlight, 3000K | 4000K | 5000K, White... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MN5...UTF8&psc=1

 They do not include a bracket and in the instructions they list mounting the box as "optional", the included paperwork does show a new work plate and a strap bracket for going to framing as being available
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#19
bottd: That’s not the same as what I’m writing about. The ones I have are called “Halo”.


One thing I thought of is the strap could fall out of the box as the boxes aren’t sealed.
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#20
On edit: never mind, they don't line up. I could drill some holes in the brackets and make it work. Going to wait on that decision


I'll install the lights later today, but first I looked at how the bracket on the j-box lined up with the bolts on the light itself.  It turns out they line up.  The bracket overhangs the outside of the light enough that I might cut a little bigger hole, but OTOH, it's just in two places, so I might not.  The below-ceiling flange on the light would still cover up the hole either way.
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