Titebond ii extended
#8
Does anyone here use titebond II extended and how does setup time compare with just titebond II
thanks
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#9
Hi
Never have, generally use Titebond III, then for my longer open times I have used hyde glue.
I also use polyurethane glue depending on the application.
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#10
Never used it, but the website says it has an open time of 15 minutes and a total assembly time of 20-25 minutes @ 70º. Those numbers for Titebond II are 3=5 minutes open time and 10-15 minutes assembly time.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#11
(06-06-2021, 02:39 PM)MT Woodworker Wrote: Hi
Never have, generally use Titebond III, then for my longer open times I have used hyde glue.
I also use polyurethane glue depending on the application.

I mostly use titebond III, just wondering about setup time compared to tb III
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#12
Been a long time since I used it....yes you have more time for assembly and adjustment. Never noticed any strength difference.

It served its purpose and I'll use it again if needed.

And don't ask me what I used it on, crs syndrome here.

Ed
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#13
(06-06-2021, 02:26 PM)wing nut Wrote: Does anyone here use titebond II extended and how does setup time compare with just titebond II
thanks

I used it when it first came out. I didn't see a great deal of time difference than with Titebond II, slightly longer but definitely not the advertised 15 minutes. I own a woodwork and furniture repair shop, I do some really extensive multi piece glue-ups and I use original titebond for most of my glue-ups, hide glue, (heated in a pot not the bottled stuff) for many antiques. I only use titebond III for exterior items or sink bases. Titebond II is good, but if you want an item to be essentially infinitely repairable, hide glue or titebond original is the glue to use. A good joint assembled with either TB original or hide glue will last 50 to 100 years. When it fails it can be disassembled fairly easily with patience and persuasion, scraped clean with very little if any stock removal and re-glued. 

When I do large glue-ups especially chairs with many spindles, tenons, mortices and or dowels, I put glue on both sides of the joint. Organization, dry fitting/test assembly, laying pieces and clamps in a proper order, having an open tub of glue, glue brush and wet wipes for excess before you start, will make large assemblies move more than fast enough to be successful with TB original, TB II or TB III. Moving from one corner of the assembly to the next gluing both sides of the joint is key to a quality secure assembly. I assembled two large chairs today that had 12 spindles each, they were very difficult assemblies because prior repairs were atrocious. I had to use epoxy on one arm assembly because the original owner repaired it before and severely damaged the mortices and I used TB original on the rest of it. Even having to mix epoxy, glue and assemble 12 spindles top and bottom there was enough time to complete the assembly in one sitting because I was organized. Don't over think open time it's not solid in 10 minutes as long as the joint was glued well and the assembly is together, it will be flexible enough for you to get things done.  

Paul Mitzel
Bel Air, MD
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#14
I'm not a fan of the PVA glues, and limit my use of them to shop projects and cabinet boxes.  I've been very pleased with Titebond Ultimate for that.  Not sure of the difference in open time, but it 'feels' like a better product to me than I or II.
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