veneering question

[Halfathumb]

Arched cabinet door panels should be beveled. What's involved to apply veneer? FWIW each panel will be about 12" X 32".

[jteneyck]

Arched cabinet door panels should be beveled. What's involved to apply veneer? FWIW each panel will be about 12" X 32".

Not sure I really understand your question, but I would veneer the panels and then cut the profiles and bevels.  If your substrate is solid wood and you are using commercial veneer it would be best to first apply a backer veneer at 90 degrees to the grain of the panel, and then apply your show veneer.  If you are using shop sawn or paper backed veneer, forget the backer.  

John

[AHill]

Maybe there is a way, but normally, wouldn't a raised panel be made from solid wood that matches the frame? Unless the bevels are completely hidden by the frame, I can't imagine a veneer edge not being exposed when transitioning from the flat part of the panel to the bevel.

[jteneyck]

Maybe there is a way, but normally, wouldn't a raised panel be made from solid wood that matches the frame?  Unless the bevels are completely hidden by the frame, I can't imagine a veneer edge not being exposed when transitioning from the flat part of the panel to the bevel.

Quite often, raised panels are made with solid wood but have a really nice veneer on the face.  Yes, the edge of the veneer is exposed when the panel is beveled, but it finishes and looks just fine.  I put a new birdseye maple veneer on this dresser top, then routed it to follow the contour of the perimeter.  The edge of the veneer looks just fine.  The original veneer was applied the same way.  



John

[AHill]

Quite often, raised panels are made with solid wood but have a really nice veneer on the face.  Yes, the edge of the veneer is exposed when the panel is beveled, but it finishes and looks just fine.  I put a new birdseye maple veneer on this dresser top, then routed it to follow the contour of the perimeter.  The edge of the veneer looks just fine.  The original veneer was applied the same way.  



John

Beautiful work, John.  Since the OP cited arched panels and cited the dimensions, I'm assuming a cabinet, where the bevel typically runs 2-3" all around the panel.  If you're going to veneer the panel, I would imagine you're going to need to veneer the bevel as well or it will look funky.

[jteneyck]

Beautiful work, John.  Since the OP cited arched panels and cited the dimensions, I'm assuming a cabinet, where the bevel typically runs 2-3" all around the panel.  If you're going to veneer the panel, I would imagine you're going to need to veneer the bevel as well or it will look funky.

You might think so, but normally the bevels are not veneered, only the center flat section.  This technique is normally done when the veneer is something special, and unstable, like burl or crotch wood.  You put it over a plain wood door of the same species, say plain mahogany with a crutch mahogany veneer.  You will see it on many old fine American pieces made by guys like Townsend who really knew their stuff, and maybe by guys making top end reproductions like Dave Diaman, who also really knows his stuff.  I think some French pieces had veneer on the bevels, too, including the arched ones, but to my eye it's too much of a good thing.  

John

[Halfathumb]

Maybe there is a way, but normally, wouldn't a raised panel be made from solid wood that matches the frame?  Unless the bevels are completely hidden by the frame, I can't imagine a veneer edge not being exposed when transitioning from the flat part of the panel to the bevel.

I'm making doors on a book case that sits on top of a secretary. I already have burl veneer on the drawer fronts and on the drop down desk. I'll be matching the book case doors to go along with everything else I've veneered. If I can't veneer raised panels I'll keep them flat and veneer them on both sides.

Jim

[AHill]

You might think so, but normally the bevels are not veneered, only the center flat section.  This technique is normally done when the veneer is something special, and unstable, like burl or crotch wood.  You put it over a plain wood door of the same species, say plain mahogany with a crutch mahogany veneer.  You will see it on many old fine American pieces made by guys like Townsend who really knew their stuff, and maybe by guys making top end reproductions like Dave Diaman, who also really knows his stuff.  I think some French pieces had veneer on the bevels, too, including the arched ones, but to my eye it's too much of a good thing.  

John

Ah, makes sense.  Thanks for the explanation and background.

[Halfathumb]

Actually I was hoping to use crotch veneer on the doors, but at $1K for a sheet that fell out of the plans.

Jim