Did I fry my dust collector
#11
I bought a used laguna cflux 1 on Craigslist. I stupidly assumed it was 220v based on the plug and plugged it in.  Motor turned on briefly and the onboard circuit breaker tripped. Realization dawned and I realized it was wired to 110. Initially planned to rewire to 220 but found out you need to order a new switch assembly. So I went and added a 30 amp breaker (10gauge) wiring and hooked it up. Now the switch lights up when I turn it on but nothing else. Any hope or am I sol?

Link to manual
https://860860.app.netsuite.com/core/med...9&_xt=.pdf


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#12
No motor or electrical expert here but I'm thinking if the internal circuit breaker tripped, the board and the circuits were protected. Did you buy the new switch you mentioned was necessary?

Doug
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#13
Were there a 220 plug already on the cord, or?
Steve

Missouri






 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








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#14
(06-25-2021, 08:05 PM)Stwood_ Wrote: Were there a 220 plug already on the cord, or?

Yes which is why I assumed it was wired 220 in the first place.  It had a 220v twist lock.  This actually caused a 2nd trip to HD because I bought a 110V twist lock receptacle and therefore didn't fit in the 220v twist lock plug on the machine. And had to go back and replace it with a matching 110V plug.
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#15
(06-25-2021, 07:42 PM)Tapper Wrote: Did you buy the new switch you mentioned was necessary?

Doug

No because when I initially looked up the price of the switch I thought it would be much more economical to just add another 110V line with 30a breaker.  Didn't realize how expensive 10 gauge wire is however so I didn't really end up saving that much.
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#16
(06-25-2021, 08:28 PM)Juss1 Wrote: No because when I initially looked up the price of the switch I thought it would be much more economical to just add another 110V line with 30a breaker.  Didn't realize how expensive 10 gauge wire is however so I didn't really end up saving that much.

See if you have continuity between the two M1 terminals on what appears to be a 15 amp circuit breaker on the drawings (probably a auto reset breaker).   You should have but 240v may have messed it up.  Roly
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#17
If the motor turns out to be fried, find a shop that repairs them. I had a jointer motor go out on me. I have a local shop that repairs electrical motor and I seem to recall the cost to repair was either $40 or $60.
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#18
(06-28-2021, 07:44 PM)Scoony Wrote: If the motor turns out to be fried, find a shop that repairs them. I had a jointer motor go out on me. I have a local shop that repairs electrical motor and I seem to recall the cost to repair was either $40 or $60.

This is totally dependent on where you live. 



No motor shop in the ATL will even look at a motor for $40, let alone repair one.
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#19
Thanks for the replies. Turns out the motor is ok but I fried something in the switch assembly. Shorted a couple of wires to bypass the switch assembly and motor ran fine when I turned on the breaker. I will just need to buy a replacement board which is $50 I think. Definitely not great news but better than having destroyed the motor I guess.
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#20
(06-28-2021, 10:23 PM)Juss1 Wrote: I will just need to buy a replacement board which is $50 I think.  Definitely not great news but better than having destroyed the motor I guess.

Yes, you dodged a bullet there.  But what is that board for?  Is it a remote control?  

I just run mine off a motor-rated switch.  Looks like a common wall switch, but has heavier contacts and is actually motor rated (by hp at voltage).  Not expensive, though, and if and when it craps out, I’ll just get another one.
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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