Bypass softstart on Craftsman 320 17541 router
#9
Does anyone have any information on how to bypass the soft start feature on the 17541 router?  This question was answered apparently in or prior to 2011 on these forums, but I can’t locate the thread via search (even the archives).  I have owned the router for a while but just got it out to use today.  It takes 15 - 30 seconds to start and then powers down most times in 3-5 seconds with no load.  It was new when I bought it and has been stored.

Apparently this was a common issue - at least it seems to have been.  I can’t really afford a new router at this moment and have a few projects where I need to use it.

Thanks
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#10
Can you not take it to a sears repair dealer and maybe get it warranted?
Steve

Missouri






 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








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#11
Router only had 1 year warranty from date of purchase.  I have had it probably 10 years even though I just got it out of the box for the first time.  Beyond that, the craftsman brand has been sold once or twice.  From what I have seen even years ago Sears was telling people they didn’t repair them.  Additionally the part I would need is obsolete/discontinued and is no longer made.  Thanks for the reply.
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#12
(07-17-2021, 11:50 AM)fascarync Wrote: Router only had 1 year warranty from date of purchase.  I have had it probably 10 years even though I just got it out of the box for the first time.  Beyond that, the craftsman brand has been sold once or twice.  From what I have seen even years ago Sears was telling people they didn’t repair them.  Additionally the part I would need is obsolete/discontinued and is no longer made.  Thanks for the reply.

Here is how it is done on a Porter Cable router, yours may be the same.   I would suggest adding a external speed control as turning on with a large router bit will be exciting to say the least.
[Image: vsc-bypass-jpg.37375]This is located under the top cap above the brushes.   Also remember it will only run at max speed without a speed control.   A Harbor Freight speed control works on my router.   Roly
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#13
Thanks for the diagram.  Things seem very different between the two.  I have attached a photo below (assuming it attaches)

Here is what I think I know.

White and Black from cord go to connectors on board.
Green / Yellow go to the switch
Two heavier gauge Browns seem to go to brushes
Lite gauge white, brown, and blue drive leds

The board is encased so I can’t really see the circuitry.

I measured the voltage as well.  With the switch off, measuring between pairs (all are white + other color) I saw.

White/Black. 120V
White/Yellow. 120V
White/Brown-1. 120V
White/Green.  0V
White//Brown-2.  0V

With switch on I see
White/Green  120V
White/Brown-2. —low voltage

So my guess is that the circuit (in theory) controls the voltage on the white/brown-2 pair.

I was thinking that jumping the green to the brown-2 may work but at least the first attempt didn’t.

To help with pic:
Brown 1 is on top

On bottom the wires are green, yellow, black, 2 lite gauge white, White (from cord), and then Brown-2

Still searching for ideas, this router works for a while then stops has allowed me to ruin a few pieces of wood at this point…


Attached Files Image(s)
   
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#14
(07-17-2021, 03:57 PM)fascarync Wrote: Thanks for the diagram.  Things seem very different between the two.  I have attached a photo below (assuming it attaches)

Here is what I think I know.

White and Black from cord go to connectors on board.
Green / Yellow go to the switch
Two heavier gauge Browns seem to go to brushes
Lite gauge white, brown, and blue drive leds

The board is encased so I can’t really see the circuitry.

I measured the voltage as well.  With the switch off, measuring between pairs (all are white + other color) I saw.

White/Black. 120V
White/Yellow. 120V
White/Brown-1. 120V
White/Green.  0V
White//Brown-2.  0V

With switch on I see
White/Green  120V
White/Brown-2. —low voltage

So my guess is that the circuit (in theory) controls the voltage on the white/brown-2 pair.

I was thinking that jumping the green to the brown-2 may work but at least the first attempt didn’t.

To help with pic:
Brown 1 is on top

On bottom the wires are green, yellow, black, 2 lite gauge white, White (from cord), and then Brown-2

Still searching for ideas, this router works for a while then stops has allowed me to ruin a few pieces of wood at this point…

Putting 120v across the two brown leads going to he brushes should make it run but since it looks like the speed control is also the on/off switch, it would be too dangerous to by pass the switch.   Roly
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#15
Thanks. I would have thought that connecting the green to the second brown (green only had voltage when switch was on) would have worked similar to connecting browns as you mentioned - but leaving the switch in the circuit. Maybe I need to try it again or convince my wife I should just get new router.
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#16
Thanks. I would have thought that connecting the green to the second brown (green only had voltage when switch was on) would have worked similar to connecting browns as you mentioned - but leaving the switch in the circuit. Maybe I need to try it again or convince my wife I should just get new router.
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