Hollowing a cup
#4
  
Is there a DETAILED video showing hollowing cup/chalice?

Thanks 
Jim
Jim
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#5
  Re: Hollowing a cup by Halfathumb (Is there a DETAILED ...)
I don't have a link to a video handy, but the general process is:
Between centers:
1) rough to round, 
2) cut a tenon on the end that is to be the base,
3) plan the cup/chalice with enough space to part off the tenon when done,
4) make a shallow parting cut at the base to help visual the form,
5) rough in the shape of the chalice but leave the diameter of the stem section ~2/3 of the bowl/base diameter,
Switch to chuck:
1) refine outside of bowl,
2) cut/scrape inside of bowl,
3) sand and finish inside of bowl and lip,
4) refine stem section
  - working from bowl towards base
  - sanding as you go
  - the thinner the stem, the more important that you not cut/scrape portions of the piece further from the headstock than the thine section
5) complete sanding & finishing base top and stem,
6) part off piece from tenon most of the way through,
7) use saw to finish separating piece from tenon,
8) hand sand and finish bottom of base.
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick

A wish for you all:  May you keep buying green bananas.
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#6
  Re: Hollowing a cup by Halfathumb (Is there a DETAILED ...)
(08-25-2021, 12:06 PM)Halfathumb Wrote: Is there a DETAILED video showing hollowing cup/chalice?

Thanks 
Jim

No, but a bit of advice here.  OK, wait over.  I recommend that you make a tenon with a dovetail wedge hold, not a wood-chewing "spigot" hold.  In the event you might deliberately or accidentally remove your piece prior to final parting, it will center up a lot more easily on a remount.  

You should, I believe, hollow the bowl prior to shaping the outside.  No danger of tearing through that way.  Taper a little wider as you hollow from bottom to top, so you can maintain a continuous down grain shave in the hollowing.  Saves sanding, which, BTW, I prefer to do before refining the outside.  You might do as many do, and bore for depth before actual hollowing.  Remember the point on the bit you're using is also part of the depth.  

Have a cone pre-turned and mounted on your live center to extend, press and hold into the hollow area, so your turning will be held stable between centers as you start the stem.  Could save you some grief.  I retract it periodically and use my digital calipers to refine the bowl, too. Born coward.  Thin the stem and part between centers, remembering to part a bit on an inward  slant to have the piece sit firmly rather than wobble on the nub you didn't remember to carve off lower than the rim.

If you start green I would suggest that you stand the curing piece on thin stickers so the bottom can cure more evenly from both sides.  Saves splits.  

   


"Pointy" grind for hollowing.

   


Swung across bottom and up/out to make shavings. 

Did I mention a steady?  should have, but not vital, just cowards way out. 
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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