Dovetail angle
#11
What’s everyone’s preferred angle for hand cutting dovetails ?
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#12
(09-15-2021, 08:56 AM)weedsnager Wrote: What’s everyone’s preferred angle for hand cutting dovetails ?

The one that looks good. Sometimes I use a marking jig if I want them to be consistent angles. I don't get out and cut them every day so my eye isn't as well trained in that respect. But I do prefer the look of a shallow angle.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#13
(09-15-2021, 09:04 AM)Rob Young Wrote: The one that looks good. 

The exact words I was going to type. Trust your eye.
Best,
Aram, always learning

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


Web: My woodworking photo site
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#14
(09-15-2021, 08:56 AM)weedsnager Wrote: What’s everyone’s preferred angle for hand cutting dovetails ?

It is not so much the ratio (I prefer 6:1 and 7:1). It is also the width of the tip of the tail (I am not sure what to call this). And the spacing of the tails. 

In my opinion, dovetails are a part of the whole design, and they need to fit in. If you are aiming at higher end work, they are not something that one does as an after thought.  In my experience, those that do not take the time to plan their dovetailing are producing more pedestrian work.

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Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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#15
Typically, 1:6 or 9.5* for softwood, 1:8 or 7* for hardwood. Some deviations from either angle are perfectly fine. Regardless of the exact angles (unless they are too extreme or spacing poorly done or sizes overblown), all well cut dovetails by hand will look fantastic.

Simon
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#16
Generally you want a steeper angle for softwoods.

The angle isn't critical, but something less than 1:8.

Delicate or decorative dt's look best with 1:9 or 1:10 and very narrow pins.
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#17
Quote:Generally you want a steeper angle for softwoods.

The angle isn't critical, but something less than 1:8.

Delicate or decorative dt's look best with 1:9 or 1:10 and very narrow pins.

A dovetail with an angle of 1:9 or 1:10 will end up  looking like a box joint. Very uninspiring.

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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#18
<p>I'm just a beginner. I got the markers from Lee Valley for 1:6 and 1:8. So far only using 1:6 as I'm using pine.</p><p><br></p><p>Wanted to add I've been watching Rob Cosman videos on youtube and one with 2020 in the title he notes he does 1:6 for almost everything now because the higher ratios are hard to see that they're dovetails from far away.<br></p><p><br></p>
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#19
<p>IF you happen to have both a Framer's Square, and a sliding bevel gauge....then K.I.S.S go watch Roy Underhill set the bevel gauge using that square. &nbsp; And, he lays it out as a 1:6 angle...K.I.S.S. &nbsp;&nbsp; No need for fancy jigs.&nbsp; Just as easy to set the bevel gauge to a 7, or an 8....Olde School, but it do work....</p><p><br></p><p>BTW: not really a fan of those skinny pins....have seen a few older drawers, where the skinny pins had just crumbled away, over time...<br></p>
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#20
<p>
(09-24-2021, 09:44 AM)bandit571 Wrote: </p><p><br></p><p>BTW: not really a fan of those skinny pins....have seen a few older drawers, where the skinny pins had just crumbled away, over time...<br></p><p>

</p><p><br></p><p>Bandit,</p><p><br></p><p>All due respect, this makes no sense to me. Unless the front is loose, what would cause the pins to fall apart? Everything moves as one piece. I don't get it.</p><p><br></p><p><br></p>
Best,
Aram, always learning

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


Web: My woodworking photo site
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