Wedged Tenons questions

[msweig]

<p>I'm working on the staked desk from Chris Schwarz book.&nbsp; While I've done wedged tenons before, they have always been much smaller and not quite as vital to the joint.&nbsp; So I've got some questions on how to make these work really well (as I'm a bit worried that my joints might be a bit too loose and will need the wedge to help with the fit, but we will see).</p><p><br></p><p>So basically I've got a 2" diameter tenon going into an angled round mortise. &nbsp;Schwarz notes to use a wedge with a 4 degree angle, and mentions several ways to cut the wedges.&nbsp; I went with the bandsaw since I was already using that for tapering the legs.&nbsp; My question on the wedge is should I smooth it out, or is rough off the bandsaw fine?</p><p><br></p><p>The second question I have is how deep should I make the slot for the wedge? &nbsp; Most of the way through the tenon, basically just short of where it would be visible on the other side? (On this desk the shoulders of the tenon are not flush with the batten). Or do you want to be shorter than that?<br></p><p><br></p><p>Any other suggestions/things I should take into consideration?<br></p>

[KyleD]

<p>Wedging a round tenon is not always a good fix for a poor fit. You may want to look at glueing on some veneer and fixing the fit.&nbsp;</p><p>If you decide to use wedges on a 2" round tenon I would suggest using double wedges due to the large tenon&nbsp;size.</p><p>As far as should the wedges be smooth- I would say it doesn't really matter as long as the roughness isn't so bad it causes the wedge to break when being pounded in.&nbsp;</p>
I would make the kerfs fairly deep and close to the other side. 4 degrees is a fairly shallow angle and you are working on a large tenon.

[msweig]

<p>Thanks.&nbsp; I'm not positive on the fit yet, but will definitely go the veneer route if it ends up being too loose.&nbsp; I cut the tenons first (probably shouldn't have done that), and they were made by hand, not a lathe, so they are not perfectly round.&nbsp; I had a sample mortise, but it was cut in thicker wood.&nbsp; I glued and wedged up a spare leg in that and it is solid.&nbsp; But when I cut the first mortise in the actual batten (angled, in thinner wood) and tried one of the legs, it wasn't as tight, which has me concerned a bit. But it wasn't loose either.&nbsp; Once all the mortises are cut I can try each leg and see if I need to add veneer.</p><p><br></p><p>By a double tenon I assume you mean two that are offset parallel to each other, as opposed to one straight down the middle?</p><p><br></p><p>Mark<br></p>

[Scoony]

I use wedges off the bandsaw without smoothing. I make them slightly wider than the tenon so they lock into the mortise sides. I also read somewhere to only put glue on one side of the wedge. Don't remember the reasoning, but it seems to work just fine for me. I cut the slot almost the length of the tenon, but not so deep that you would see it from below.

If the tenons are a loose fit, I would look at gluing on some veneer as already mentioned and trimming down to a good fit.

[KyleD]

<p><br></p><p><br></p><p>"By a double tenon I assume you mean two that are offset parallel to each other, as opposed to one straight down the middle?"</p><p><br></p><p>Yes, think a circle with an equal sign centered in it if looking at the end grain of the tenon.</p><p><br></p><p><br></p>

[MichaelMouse]

<p>

</p><p><br></p><p>Any other suggestions/things I should take into consideration?<br></p><p>

</p><p><br></p><p>Orient the tenon so its face grain matches&nbsp;face grain of the other piece, and slot across the quarter.</p><p><br></p><p>Don't know the plans, but where strength has to count, a slightly oversize tenon shaved octagonal and used as a trenail is how I start.&nbsp;</p>

[bhh]

<p>Is that the one shown here?&nbsp;<a href="https://blog.lostartpress.com/2021/09/24/tour-of-our-library-and-the-new-bathroom/">LAP tour</a></p>

[msweig]

<p>Yep. That one. Though I'm skipping the drawer (for now), curly maple top (likely finished with shellac), and poplar (painted black) for the legs.&nbsp;</p>