Reruns, from the Dungeon Shop, Poplar Boxes
<p>Try this again, without those emojis....A while back, I cleaned out the best of the bin at Lowes. &nbsp; Boards were called Project Boards...and I went through the bin of 1/2" x 6" x 24" Poplar.....didn't like their Pine boards, can't afford their Oak ones ( which also warp..a lot) Poplar was the "Default" choice...</p><p>
    </p><p>These are what came home.<br></p>
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
  Re: Reruns, from the Dungeon Shop, Poplar Boxes by bandit571 (Try this again, w...)
<p>Need to cross cut these down to size...</p><p>
    </p><p>Stanley No. 358 Mitre Box &amp; I NEED a shooting board?</p><p>
    </p><p>Don't look like it, as this is right off the saw. need( for now) 2 ends, and 2 sides..</p><p>
    </p><p>That should do. &nbsp; The process so far will be the same for both boxes....where they differ will be in the joints the corners will use.&nbsp; This box...No.1...will get box/finger joints</p><p>No. 2 will get the through dovetails.&nbsp; <br></p><p>
    </p><p>So, I guess next time, I show how I lay out for 1/4" fingers.......first off, I need to make sure all 4 parts are the same sometimes they do taper these boards</p><p>
    </p><p>Again, I do this for both boxes...and yes, there was a&nbsp; slight taper going on..WAS..</p><p><br></p><p>Stay tuned..<br></p><p><br></p>
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
  Re: Reruns, from the Dungeon Shop, Poplar Boxes by bandit571 (Try this again, w...)
<p>Lay out for Finger/box joints...takes a few tools..</p><p>
    </p><p>Sharp pencil (or two) marking gauge set to the thickness of the boards ( all the same, right?) a square to "carry" all markings around..and a 1/4" wide chisel..</p><p>
    </p><p>As I use that to set how things get spaced. &nbsp; I start out on the ends, and work towards the center..hopefully, they are all the same...then mark out what will be cut away as waste..</p><p>
    </p><p>Doing BOTH of the long sides at once here, intend to mark out both ends of these 2 boards.&nbsp; Boards are set a bit high in the vise, so all the marking toys will clear the top of the help keeps these 2 boards from moving around a bit when I rotate to the other end....</p><p><br></p><p><br></p><p>
    </p><p>Should be enough to keep things lined up....rotate, and mark the other ends of these longer boards. &nbsp; Next, I slide the two down in the vise. &nbsp; To where they will not vibrate while the saw is at work....</p><p>
    </p><p>Then just have a seat....nice when I can sit down on the job, ain't it..</p><p>
    </p><p>Forearm is level to the work, I do not have to stand there, bent over the work ( hard on me back, it is)....Left hand to guide the cuts. &nbsp; These can either split the lines, or, cut to the waste side of the lines..doesn't matter, right the ends will be gauged off of what these "pins" turn out to be.&nbsp; THEN it will matter where the saw goes.</p><p><br></p><p>When done, lay the boards out like a book...</p><p>
    </p><p>It is in HOW you open the book that matters....right here, I'm looking at the outside faces of both boards. &nbsp; Flip this over, label as to "IN"&nbsp; for inside, a "T" for the top, and a "B" for the bottom edges..</p><p>
    </p><p>And, either both "t"s or both "Bs" will be against each other.....time to do a bit of chopping? &nbsp;&nbsp; Right about here, I set one of the sides aside, will get around to later..just want to chop and fit one corner at a time. &nbsp; That way, any variance in the cuts or chops won't follow me around the box. &nbsp; I need to chop out one set of fingers, use those to lay out the end's I can saw and chop those out....and hopefully they fit....</p><p><br></p><p>So, to chop...I set up a block to clamp the part to, outside face up...</p><p>
    </p><p>To control against any breakouts that would show...don't want that, right. &nbsp; I chop about halfway down at the line, leave a porch for support. and flip the board over..</p><p>
    </p><p>And start popping the waste out....have to watch out, as those little squares tend to fly out....usually straight back....have had more than a couple bounce off my glasses..( this is actually one of the end pieces, being chopped to match that side piece in the background..)<br></p><p><br></p><p>Next...just more of the same. &nbsp;&nbsp; I stand this completed side up onto an end piece, trace around all the fingers (except mine) and saw and chop. &nbsp; I try to leave the lines, and saw on the waste side...the more line I can leave, the tighter the joint will be. &nbsp; I also label that end as to which corner this will go to (#1?) and inside, top and bottom to match the side at that corner...</p><p><br></p><p>Out of photo space....stay tuned...( will see IF this will post)<br></p><p><br></p><p><br></p><p><br></p>
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
  Re: Reruns, from the Dungeon Shop, Poplar Boxes by bandit571 (Try this again, w...)
<p>Lets try a few dry fits....usually the first corner is the worst..</p><p>
    </p><p>Not too hateful? &nbsp; One down, only three more to do..</p><p>
    </p><p>2nd corner done...going along way too well?</p><p>
    </p><p>3 corners done...only one more to do...</p><p>
    </p><p>all 4 corners are is sitting there, dry fitted.&nbsp; no clamps, nor any glue....need to lay this out, and start marking for 3 grooves...</p><p>
    </p><p>Opens right up. &nbsp; Double check the markings, will come in handy during a glue up, later....corner #4 may not quite fit into corner #2...</p><p><br></p><p>Need to set up the Stanley 45, with a #12 cutter...depth of cut is exactly halfway through the sides. &nbsp;&nbsp; Will need to plough 3 grooves on the inside, and a 4th on on the outside, once the box has been glued up.&nbsp; <br></p><p><br></p><p>Stay tuned....going to get "Groovy"<br></p>
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
  Re: Reruns, from the Dungeon Shop, Poplar Boxes by bandit571 (Try this again, w...)
<p>Stanley 45, with a #12 cutter on board. &nbsp; Fence will get moved, later. &nbsp; for right now, though, I need a groove at the bottom and the top of each</p><p>
    </p><p>Set the fence so a 1/4" is between the groove and the edge of the board....then jig things up to hold the board still long enough to have a groove ploughed...and..NOT have the fence hitting anything along the way....first grooves....worked on the 2 end boards first...</p><p>
    </p><p>Do one edge, rotate, do the other edge, re jig a bit longer area, repeat to groove the 2 longer side boards...check groove alignment with the plywood panels I will be using...I keep an old candle handy, to help the plane slide in the groove a bit better...</p><p><br></p><p><br></p><p><br></p><p><br></p><p><br></p><p>Ok, those 8 grooves are done...need a cam rest, longer rods, and reset the fence...</p><p>
    <br></p><p><br></p><p>.needed to figure out how thick the lid will be...and adjust the groove. &nbsp; Groove on the inside will be ABOVE the one on the outside...this forms the "Dust Seal"</p><p>.
    </p><p>Making a bowl of noodles?&nbsp; Not exactly..</p><p>
    </p><p>Again, all 4 sides also get this "extra" groove. &nbsp; The "Cam Rest" sits on one of the rods, out near the fence. &nbsp; It's job is to keep the plane from leaning over.&nbsp; <br></p><p><br></p><p>get the two plywood panels cut and jointed to final size....mark on the outside of each side board where that 3rd groove is located...otherwise, it is very hard to find that groove, once the box has been glued the best looking grain for the lid's panel...bottom panel can be a tad plain...</p><p>
    </p><p>Time for glue,cauls and clamps,,,,keep a square handy, to keep checking the box to make sure it IS square..</p><p>
    </p><p>There will be a lot going on, during the glue up...I found it a good idea to do a "dry run" to get all the clamps ready...cut any cauls needed....nd have everything laid out in the way it is SUPPOSED to go soon parts tend to want to "freelance" we go..cussing is usually involved...</p><p>
    </p><p>Keep any and all cauls away from the fingers, both the box's and are trying to press&nbsp; the finger down between another set of fingers...</p><p>
    </p><p>Small box, gets a might crowded when that forest of clamps shows up....then just let it sit a day or two....before the clamps come off..</p><p>
    </p><p><br></p><p>Because once the box is out of the clamps, I clean up all the glue joints...smooth out any fingertips sticking up...and fill any holes...need to find them 2 pencil lines at one corner, that shows WHERE the inside groove IS....</p><p><br></p><p>Stay tuned, that will be the next episode..afterall, I do want to open that lid, right?<br></p><p><br></p><p><br></p><p><br></p><p><br></p><p><br></p>
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
  Re: Reruns, from the Dungeon Shop, Poplar Boxes by bandit571 (Try this again, w...)
<p>Need to get that lid set free..grooves can overlap a hair....hardest part is where the outside groove meets a corner..</p><p>
    </p><p>This is one of the long sides...getting a bit thin in there.&nbsp; I don't want it to break through yet...prefer it wait until the last groove is done.</p><p>
    </p><p>Because of where the grooves were...the shorter ends were done last, as they cleaned up at the outside corners...In theory, the lid SHOULD open like this..</p><p>
    </p><p>Turned out, either the inside or the outside groove wasn't quite deep enough...needed a utility knife to split the lid free...and the lid did not want to snuggle down tight to seal the box. &nbsp;&nbsp; Decided to thin the inside lip....easier than trying to thin the edge of the lid on the inside...reset the Stanley 45...</p><p>
    </p><p>Run it all the way around...check the around again if needed....don't get greedy, too good of a chance to blow right through that lip. &nbsp; <br></p><p><br></p><p>To keep the lid and box together....</p><p>Clamp the two together in the bench vise, it will hold things together as you install the hinges...lets see, 1/2" thick boards with a 1/4" wide lip/rebate where You'd want to mortise a hinge at? &nbsp; Not happening..flush mount a couple fancy hinges, instead...</p><p>
    </p><p>Then rotate around, and install a latch..</p><p>
    </p><p>And...if you want..</p><p>
    </p><p>You can add a handle on each end....everything should have been sanded smooth by now, right?&nbsp; because a finish will get install next..</p><p>Front view..</p><p>
    </p><p>back view...<br></p><p>
    </p><p>Just stained for now...will varnish both boxes after #2 is done...</p><p><br></p><p>Stay tuned...about to start on the dovetailed box next...<br></p><p><br></p><p><br></p><p><br></p><p><br></p><p><br></p>
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
  Re: Reruns, from the Dungeon Shop, Poplar Boxes by bandit571 (Try this again, w...)
<p>Time to start in on Box #2....and lay out some dovetail pins.&nbsp; <br></p><p>Parts cut to length...</p><p>
    </p><p>Lay out tools at the ready..</p><p>
    </p><p>Set a side into the bench vise, high enough that some tools will clear the top of the bench..</p><p>
    </p><p>depth set to the thickness of the mating board, &nbsp; square to carry the lines around, and up and down..</p><p>
    </p><p>I start with a half pin out on the edges, and work my way towards the middle...only, I want a wide pin where the lid will be.&nbsp; That way, the groove for the dust seal will result in 2 half pins the match the other ones..oh, and be sure to mark what is the waste area...then lower the pin board in the vise, time to make some sawdust..</p><p>
    </p><p>Much better. &nbsp; Instead of arguing about these...just go out and do them. &nbsp; I set the board low in the vise, to limit saw vibration...saw is just a Disston No.4, filed rip.</p><p><br></p><p>time to do a bit of chopping....</p><p>
    </p><p>Set up is inside face down, clamped to a hardwood scrap.&nbsp; Knife line to limit how far back the chop will go ( baseline?&nbsp; ) I chop about half way down, and leave a small porch out on the end.&nbsp; By starting on the show face, I can prevent any blowouts. &nbsp; Then flip over, and finish chopping out the waste..</p><p>
    </p><p>Not too bad?&nbsp; replace this with an end piece. &nbsp; Sharpen up the pencil, and trace around the pins. &nbsp; Over to the bandsaw...? &nbsp; Yes, I&nbsp; can see where I am cutting, and can make a few extra cuts to help remove the waste. &nbsp; I try to stay on the waste side of the lines, the more line I leave, the tighter the joint will be. &nbsp; I saw right up to the knife line, but, not into it...then clamp this board to the bench..</p><p>
    </p><p>Then, same as before, chop the outside face first, then flip over and finish the chops. &nbsp; That double black line is to show where the dust seal groove will go..I hope..</p><p>Time for a test fit?</p><p>
    </p><p>One corner done...only three more to go...BTW:&nbsp; it helps to mark which is the inside, and where the top and bottom edges will be. &nbsp; when you get a corner done, number those two parts...will come in very handy later....during the glue up.&nbsp; <br></p><p>
    </p><p>2 corners done...we getting there...keep going and get all 4 corners? or take the evening off...come back the next day, and complete the last two corners...</p><p><br></p><p>Somedays, ya gotta know when to say when....hardest part for me...was standing at the bandsaw...trying to see the lines (not quite enough light) while all hunched over..gets to the back and back of the legs after a while..anymore, I try to set a time limit as to how long the work sessions will last....2-4 hours is about it.</p><p><br></p><p>Stay tuned...<br></p><p><br></p><p><br></p><p><br></p>
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
  Re: Reruns, from the Dungeon Shop, Poplar Boxes by bandit571 (Try this again, w...)
<p>Spend a day..getting corners 3 and 4 milled...</p><p>
    </p><p>#4 corner had an issue with a half the board wanted to curl out....will fix that during the glue up..</p><p><br></p><p>Anyway, need the Stanley No. 45, again...</p><p>
    </p><p>Need the inside grooves milled...</p><p>
    </p><p>Seems on this box, the lid will be a bit allow for the handle of a tray I still have to build...</p><p><br></p><p>
    </p><p>test fitting the plywood panels....if they are a tad too big, we have ways..</p><p>
    </p><p>want a snug fit, just not TOO snug...also don't want them to rattle around, either.&nbsp; Groove is marked on the outside, so...might as well glue this up..clamps and cauls from the last glue-up should come in handy..</p><p>
    </p><p>And that will do, for one day's work. &nbsp; let the glue sit overnight....and let my back rest up, too...</p><p><br></p><p>Stay tuned..<br></p><p><br></p>
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
  Re: Reruns, from the Dungeon Shop, Poplar Boxes by bandit571 (Try this again, w...)
<p>A little bit on that Stanley 45....grooves for the top and bottom panels are fairly easy to do..</p><p>
    </p><p>Only need the short rods in place..fence can be set to run against the edge of the board, and then space things out a bit for the 1/4" wide groove, to be 1/4" away from the edge. &nbsp; Get about halfway in depth, rub the beginning of the groove with a candle...helps the plane slide along in the groove. <br></p><p><br></p><p>However, when a groove is not out near an edge...the long rods will get used..</p><p>
    </p><p>Take the fence, remove the short rods, install the long rods..install the sliding stock back to where it was, and slide the fence on</p><p>
    </p><p>Set the fence so the cutter will be ploughing the groove where you need it. &nbsp; Note on the front rod? &nbsp; There is a gadget called a cam you get farther away from an edge , the cam rest supports the end out by the fence...preventing the plane from tilting.</p><p>
    </p><p>The only downside? &nbsp; You will have to adjust the rest as you get any deeper...little bolt there? &nbsp; Loosen it just a tad, to where&nbsp; you can strong-arm it around for depth.</p><p>Once the middle groove on the inside has been done to all four sides, you can reset the fence a bit...and have it ready to do the outside groove..</p><p>
    </p><p>You can even leave the cam-rest as is..</p><p>.
    </p><p>And IF things are laid out get a decent looking dust seal detail..<br></p><p><br></p><p><br></p><p><br></p><p><br></p>
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
  Re: Reruns, from the Dungeon Shop, Poplar Boxes by bandit571 (Try this again, w...)
<p>Box out of the clamps...joints smoothed out, glue cleaned off...</p><p>
    </p><p>well I'll be...those are Dovetail joints?&nbsp; Not Finger joints? &nbsp; Guess one CAN tell the difference..</p><p><br></p><p>Anyway, mark out where the out side groove will go..</p><p>
    </p><p>Set the Stanley #45's fence to match..and the cam-rest....</p><p>
    </p><p>And start making a groove</p><p>
    </p><p>Once you get all the way around...a sharp knife is used to finish splitting off the lid..</p><p>Ploughing the longer grooves, and trying to keep the box flat to the bench...once the lid is off, then fine tune the fit...</p><p>
    </p><p>Almost there...had a high spot down at the left corner...Then...a hinge or two..</p><p>
    </p><p>Oh, and this box also gets fancy brass corners....flip around, and add a latch...</p><p>
    </p><p>And more brass can even add handles on the ends...</p><p>
    </p><p>About done? &nbsp; Not exactly....needs a stain, and a coat or two of varnish......and a tray..</p><p>
    </p><p>Stay tuned....<br></p><p><br></p><p><br></p>

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