band saw throat plate

[mr_skittle]

I've got a Delta bandsaw from the early 40's or so that came to me with a steel throat plate that was really beaten up. I made a new one out of 1/4 in plexiglass that was working well enough until I wanted to drill some holes to improve dust collection. Well, apparently you don't want to use twist bits on acrylic because it broke on the first hole. I've since tried making a new one and have failed a few times. This stuff is just sooo brittle. Does anyone have any suggestions for a throat plate that I can drill holes in but is only about 3/16in thick?

[Bob Vaughan]

I've got a Delta bandsaw from the early 40's or so that came to me with a steel throat plate that was really beaten up. I made a new one out of 1/4 in plexiglass that was working well enough until I wanted to drill some holes to improve dust collection. Well, apparently you don't want to use twist bits on acrylic because it broke on the first hole. I've since tried making a new one and have failed a few times. This stuff is just sooo brittle. Does anyone have any suggestions for a throat plate that I can drill holes in but is only about 3/16in thick?

The throat plate should be 2.5" diameter and .092" thick (3/32nds)
I've made many over the years using mostly .092" thick aluminum.  Never plastic for the reasons you've found.  Aluminum drill easily.  My absolute favorite insert material is .092" bronze.  It's much heavier than aluminum.
Aluminum sheet is what many of the original Delta throat plates were made of.  Some of the early plates may have been steel but steel eats up the cutting edge of the blade's tooth set.  I've seen some original Delta throat plates that were cast aluminum also, but the sheet .092 aluminum seem to have been the most popular.
Aluminum drills well.

[mr_skittle]

Aluminum is a good idea. Any idea where to get it?

[wpwoodworker]

Plexiglass is an acrylic compound which, as you’ve found, is brittle. If you want to stick with clear plastic, try polycarbonate instead (one brand name is Lucite). Polycarbonate is the main component of high performance windshields and bullet-proof glass. Polycarbonate does not shatter/crack like acrylic. Be careful when drilling, if it gets too hot it can melt. You can get polycarbonate at most home centers - Lowes, HD, Menards, etc. just make sure it is clearly labeled polycarbonate.
I agree aluminum, brass and bronze sheet are all very good for this application. You can find these from online hardware suppliers like McMaster and sometimes ebay.

[Alan S]

Polycarbonate could work, and is much stronger than acrylic. However the brand name version is Lexan. Lucite is acrylic.

[fredhargis]

Don't be surprised if you find the extra holes do next to nothing to help with the dust collection. When your sawing, the holes will be covered with the workpiece blocking any airflow you may have gained.

[jteneyck]

Don't be surprised if you find the extra holes do next to nothing to help with the dust collection. When your sawing, the holes will be covered with the workpiece blocking any airflow you may have gained.

This ^.

I bought a bag of plastic inserts for my 14" Delta from Rockler several years ago.  Probably enough to last me as long as I need.  

John

[mr_skittle]

Don't be surprised if you find the extra holes do next to nothing to help with the dust collection. When your sawing, the holes will be covered with the workpiece blocking any airflow you may have gained.

This is a good point. I think I've become a little too concerned with succeeding at making the throat plate to stop and think about if the holes make a difference. I recently got my first dust collector so I've been seeing my tools in a different light. I realize that a lot of dust with the bandsaw is directly under the table and that I need to address that. I've been browsing online for ideas on DIY bandsaw dust collection and they all have some sort of enclosure right under the table. It was easy to get the DC hooked to all the tools that already had ports, now I have to fabricate collection housings and ports for the bandsaw, router table, and benchtop planer. I have trouble taking time away from furniture building to take care of these projects.

[jteneyck]

This is a good point. I think I've become a little too concerned with succeeding at making the throat plate to stop and think about if the holes make a difference. I recently got my first dust collector so I've been seeing my tools in a different light. I realize that a lot of dust with the bandsaw is directly under the table and that I need to address that. I've been browsing online for ideas on DIY bandsaw dust collection and they all have some sort of enclosure right under the table. It was easy to get the DC hooked to all the tools that already had ports, now I have to fabricate collection housings and ports for the bandsaw, router table, and benchtop planer. I have trouble taking time away from furniture building to take care of these projects.

Yes, dust collection right under the table is the right approach.  However, you have to plan and fabricate the parts to allow for airflow from under the table because there will be no airflow through the insert once the wood is over it, as Fred said.  I use a PVC elbow.  The metal bracket fits over the stud that the wheel cover fits onto and is held in place with the same handwheel.  



The open end allows for airflow:



Hooked up to my shop vac it captures about 80 - 90% of the dust.  

John

[mr_skittle]

I had the same idea of sandwiching the insert between two pieces of plywood. Unfortunately I never got that far.

I love the idea of an elbow. Its sooo much easier than the DIY ideas I've seen. I'll have to give it a try. The bandsaw also has an opening at the bottom of the bottom wheel housing that I hooked my DC up to but that only seems to collect about half the dust. I'll have to get a wye connector so I can run a second hose to underneath the table.