More Green in the Shop

[lincmercguy]

I picked up a TS-55, my second Festool aside from the CT Mini.  My main use will be for plywood, both breaking it down and cutting larger pieces to size.  I have a couple of questions.

1. I would think the most obvious rail size I need would be 55", to deal with 48" plywood.  However, I've seen some people say to get the 75" for that to allow for more start room and a square edge attachment.  Would you recommend this and are the square attachments worth it?

2. Are the festool track quick clamps worth it, or should I go for the Bessey or one of the really cheap ones?  I don't use an MFT table, so I don't have a need for them there.

3. What blade is best for plywood and hardwood crosscuts?

I haven't gone through the manual yet, but I will.

[Cabinet Monkey]

If you’re cutting sheets to “rough” size , then you don’t really need a longer rail or an add on square.   The square could even be a hinderance if the longest sheet edge is wavy or not straight.  To make it so you’ll need another 55” rail and joint bars (TSO are best)  -or- a longer one piece rail. 

Clamps are “worth it “ if you have to be absolutely certain your cut is spot on to the mm.  On an imported high gloss lacquer kitchen panel , they’d be useful.  On a piece of CDX used to crate up tool for shipping they are a waste of time and money.  They aren’t necessary for either. Forget about the cheap clamps if you get any. 

Best blade (most of the time)  for ply and sheet goods is the stock 48t blade. It will be good for crosscutting solid wood too. DO NOT attempt to rip solid wood with it though.  You may find the 48t causing burning on some sheets like very dense veneered or laminated mdf. The 28t blade works on those. 

There is a “supplemental” manual that is worTh a read too.

[fredhargis]

To me the 55" is best for the first track, and the next one would be 75". No idea if the Festool clamps are worth the price, I have a set of Bosch track clamps I use. A lot of folks skio that clamps altogether, the track sticks fairly well to most surfaces. I agree with CM about the stock blade (or it's equivalent) being best for plywood. I use mine more for straight edging rough sawn lumber so I picked up a Freud rip blade for that. Actually can't say that I've ever cross cut hardwood....other than to square up a large panel, and that's in the wheel house of the stock blade.

[mdhills]

I like the TS55 for plywood and trimming panel ends.  It is really an ideal tool for these things if you don't have a sliding tablesaw.  Good dust collection and clean cuts.  The ability to plunge has been useful at times, too.

In practice, the tracks have stayed in place well.  You do need to not bump them or have your air hose catch on them, though.  You may want to set up a harness to support your dust extraction hose above your saw.  This helps.

I have had issues with the splinter guard coming loose from the track.  Now I use spring clips to hold the ends tight when the tracks are not in use.

The tracks have tended to stay in place pretty well; I don't use the clamps very often.

I did get the long, 1-piece track for ripping 8' plywood.  The modern tracks may join together okay, but I'd been pretty unhappy when using a joined aluminum straightedge with 

I also got a shorter rail for crosscutting -- the 55 can be awkwardly long for a 2-3' crosscut.
This is probably my most-used rail, and I use it with a TSO square for cross-cutting glued up panels.

For breaking down plywood, I cut on the floor on a sheet of rigid foam.  This works pretty well.
The panel cross-cuts tend to get done at work table height.

Matt

[lincmercguy]

"For breaking down plywood, I cut on the floor on a sheet of rigid foam. This works pretty well.
The panel cross-cuts tend to get done at work table height."

I think I'll get a piece of ridgid foam I can put on my workbench or tablesaw/extension table for that. I normally break down plywood out of the back of my pickup, but that's just a rough cut.