Narrow picture to assemble?

I'm building a picture frame for my neighbor to house his dart board scoreboard.  I'm making it out of maple.  I don't think glue alone would suffice so I'd like to add some sort of mechanical fasteners.  from the picture you can see that is isn't all that wide, thus my need for a mechanical connection.  I drew in one of those zig-zaggy things you can use to join 2 pieces of wood, but since this is maple, I'm concerned that the wood's too hard do drive those home.

How would you assemble this frame?

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Dumber than I appear
If you have the PC 557 biscuit joiner I would use an FF ( 1 1/4" wide). Without that (or a Domino 500 and the 4mm tenons) I think I would just do corner splines...probably in a contrasting wood. (looked at the photo again, I doubt those FF biscuits would work...too wide)
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
As Fred said, I have used FF biscuits, when the wood will allow, but I also have an upholstery stapler and it works great on the back side of the miter joints to hold while glue sets.

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You've got lots of options besides mechanical fasteners.  The easiest is to make sure the joints fit tightly and glue it up being generous with the glue.  After it's dry, flip it over and use a Forstner bit to drill a shallow recess in the back, centered on the joint. At least a 1/4" deep if you can.  Then glue in a round disk of maple.  

Another option is to glue it up, as before, then make a cradle to hold the frame at 45 deg and run the corners through your TS using a flat tooth blade.  Then glue in a spline and trim flush.  

Another approach is to glue it up and then drill a hole through the corner and glue in a dowel.  

What John said about the round discs. Splines are a lot of work unless you already have the cradle.

Dowels? I wouldn't do it because it is too intrusive and more work. If you don't mind something seen on the edges (even on the underside), why not just use brads and putty.

I prefer slip feathers for miters such as this.
A jig takes a few minutes build.

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(11-13-2021, 10:37 AM)Gary G™ Wrote: I prefer slip feathers for miters such as this.
A jig takes a few minutes build.
Just to be clear, I am not against using splines, which I've done. It's a good skill building method. I was trying to point out that splines require more efforts to get a good result.

It's not just about the spline cradle or jig. Also important is to know how to cut the splines so they are not too thin or too thick which will necessitate more trial and error work to get a good fit.

Given the OP's frame profile (stepped and relatively thin) as seen in the images, I wouldn't recommend the use of splines unless he is really familiar with the spline process.

DP, You actually do not need anything other than glue for the mitres. What you need to do is "size" the joints before glueing them. To size, rub glue into the end grain, wait for it to get tacky, and then add more glue and clamp the corners. The sizing prevents the end grain sucking up all the glue and starving the joint. It ends up being very strong. Once dry you can add a spline if you wish.

Regards from Perth

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Another approach that works is to use "V-Nails for Picture Frames".  You tap them into the back side of the frame.  They are very fast and easy to use. 

There are magnetic installation tools for these nails that work fine but are a bit costly.  I've had no problem holding the V-nail with a needle nosed pliers, while starting to drive them in with a regular hammer.  Then, remove the pliers and drive them in flush.  You can get V-nails for either hardwoods or soft woods. 

I think Derek's comment about sizing the end grain is very important.
DP, did you pick a method?????
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

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