Looking for a Door Hinge.
#11
(Apparently, something has changed with Flickr.  I'll try to figure it out.)

I've got this big door in my house (sorry for the bad photos):

[Image: 51687846808_315995d03d_c.jpg]

Problem is, when I try to open it, it hits the base molding of the wall:

[Image: 51687846813_a0517fb0df_c.jpg]

[Image: 51688472160_7b36b00fc7_c.jpg]

Is there a type of door hinge that has three leaves, so that when it opens, the hinge will wrap around the the wall?

[Image: 51687570886_bf4be6ea12_c.jpg]

I feel like I've seen something like this, but can't find anything in my searches.

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#12
You don't need a hinge with three leaves, you just need to move the pivot further into the room. This can be accomplished with a "Wide Throw Hinge". Changing to a larger hinge (say from 3-1/2" to 4") will get you an inch more clearance. Perhaps your pins will fit to maintain continuity throughout the house. Moving your existing hinge might not get you enough and the mortises would need to be patched. I don't think replacing the baseboard with an even thinner plinth block would work either.
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
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#13
Angle the molding. Cut it back.
John T.
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#14
Google offset door hinge.   It will allow the door to open past the molding.   Roly
https://www.amazon.com/Radius-Door-Hinge...2066&psc=1
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#15
The hinge Roly links to, can also be used to swing the door wide, to make a wider opening for a wheelchair to pass.
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#16
This is what I need to solve a problem that cropped up when I added wainscot here in my office.
I cut the baseboard/trim short so that I could reinstall the door. Looks far stranger than
offset hinges will. In fact, it won't be noticed for the most part, as if I am in my office the door
mostly stands open. So they really won't be seen anyway.

Now that I know these exist.... problem will soon be solved.

Thanks for asking OP. Hope these do it for you too.
Mark Singleton

Bene vivendo est optimum vindictae


The Laws of Physics do not care about your Politics   -  Me
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#17
Thanks, Roly.  That's what I was looking for.
Now, if I can only figure out how to post pictures.

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#18
I would look at MstrCarpenter's solution before using those visually ugly offset hinges.  Great solution if nothing else works, but only then IMO.   

John
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#19
I usually always agree/support Roly's advice, even when it's different than my own, so this is rare. I use offset hinges to keep the door from reducing the clear opening when the door is opened 90*. Because the pivot is moved over the face casing, it does move the pivot slightly further away from the wall surface, so it will provide some additional clearance at 180* but it moves the door 4" away from the opening while doing so. if you just move the pivot 1/2' further from the face of the door, you'll get an extra inch at 180*. Now to be perfectly honest, the hand side will need to have a proper bevel. I've found that a slightly deeper mortice in the jamb (and slightly shallower on the door to maintain gap) makes it easier to maintain a uniform gap around the door. I feel this is minor compared to dealing with sagging off-set hinges in the future. I have seen wide-throw hinges with the leafs bent outward that addressed this but my suppliers don't have them and I can't say for sure that it wasn't a field modification.

I respect everyone on Woodnet, so I hope this doesn't offend anyone.
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
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#20
(11-21-2021, 12:27 AM)MstrCarpenter Wrote: I usually always agree/support Roly's advice, even when it's different than my own, so this is rare. I use offset hinges to keep the door from reducing the clear opening when the door is opened 90*. Because the pivot is moved over the face casing, it does move the pivot slightly further away from the wall surface, so it will provide some additional clearance at 180* but it moves the door 4" away from the opening while doing so. if you just move the pivot 1/2' further from the face of the door, you'll get an extra inch at 180*. Now to be perfectly honest, the hand side will need to have a proper bevel. I've found that a slightly deeper mortice in the jamb (and slightly shallower on the door to maintain gap) makes it easier to maintain a uniform gap around the door. I feel this is minor compared to dealing with sagging off-set hinges in the future. I have seen wide-throw hinges with the leafs bent outward that addressed this but my suppliers don't have them and I can't say for sure that it wasn't a field modification.

I respect everyone on Woodnet, so I hope this doesn't offend anyone.

It sure does not offend me as different ideas are best.    Since you mentioned the door bevel I am not sure about the clearance on top of the door as it is a radius.  Also I noticed where the door opens against the wall there is a short wall at 90 degrees to the open door so opening flat would not mean anything.  
 In this case looking at a wide throw hinge or cutting the molding at a angle may give you the clearance you want.      It looks like it has been like this from when the house was built, is not opening flat now causing a issue such as a wheelchair passage ?  Roly
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