Have planer, do I need jointer and what size?
#35
"Ripping a perfect, wide board into narrow pieces in order to flatten it on a jointer is as worse as painting a walnut tabletop. I've seen it offered as a "solution" in social media. I have never done it and I'll never do it."

I agree, and you can get up to about 9" through a 6" jointer with the method I mentioned earlier. It adds a couple of steps, but not too bad.

"Don't crosscut boards to their final lengths in the dimensioning stage. Always leave the rough board's ends as is until after the board is planed. Most lunchbox thickness planers will cause snips, even tiny ones. Often, the snips are trimmed away when the rough ends are squared."

It took me a while to learn to prevent snipe, but it is easier to handle shorter boards rather than an 8' or 10' board on the jointer. I typically cut all of the boards at least 1" longer than final length. A little bit more if it's a waxed in. This way the ends are square with the final dimensioned board. This isn't enough to cut off any snipe though.

"Removing the diagonal high points on a twisted board with a handplane will greatly reduce the no. of passes whether one uses a jointer or a planer/sled to handle them."

This is a great idea!

"But many woodworkers don't even have a decent handplane."

I resemble that remark. I only have a couple of cheapo block planes. Is a number 4 or 4 1/2 enough for this task? It's been on my list.
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#36
(12-11-2021, 04:17 PM)lincmercguy Wrote: I resemble that remark. I only have a couple of cheapo block planes. Is a number 4 or 4 1/2 enough for this task?  It's been on my list.

Either one is more than good enough. Even a block plane can do the knocking down.

By decent, I mean properly tuned and sharpened.

Simon
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#37
(12-10-2021, 10:39 AM)nkarasev Wrote: So you can install helical into deWalt planner? How much is the head for 12 or 12.5 " ?

I am afraid I do not have time for classes, so far I managed to do what I can do by myself and with ytube

Holbren has helical heads for the DeWalt:  Link

I am mostly "self-taught", and have watched many, many hours of woodworking shows over the years.  I got interested in woodworking by watching Norm Abrams on New Yankee Workshop.  After years of watching Norm, in 1999 I decided that it was time to stop watching and start doing.  I started with my Dad's old Craftsman Radial Arm Saw, and my first "real tool" purchase was a Porter Cable 690 router setup.  That router became the tool I used to complete jointing tasks before I had a jointer.

The only class I've ever taken was given to me by my wife as a gift when I retired from the Air Force in 2007.  It was a one week windsor chair class.  The real value of that class wasn't in learning the use of any one tool, or even the chair I brought home.  The value is on the knowledge I gained about wood, how it is structured, how it reacts under certain conditions, and how you can either work with it or have it work against you if you don't understand these things.  At some point, if you have a situation that allows it, you might consider a good class.  It can really help your wood education.  I know I'm better for having gone to the class years ago.
Ray
(formerly "WxMan")
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#38
Allright, as I expected there will be all possible recommendations. Well, let's just say it is life and it can't get easier than it was supposed to - if I need to know for myself I need to try it (all options).

So I went ahead, robbed the bank (just my account, don't worry) and got wahuda 8. Looked at Rikon 8 but it has machined aluminum table, I do not get this for $100 more.
Like I mentioned there are no used ones that I'd liked (couple old 6") in the my area, so the decision was to help a good company do their production business.

Regarding hand plane - if I decide I want/need one - it will be no less than veritas #8 or something to this level. I just do not believe in cheap tools and good used ones are no where to be easily found (I do not have time to hunt some obscured antiques garage sales, etc). So with the hand plane just about at least 50% or more of the price of jointer - I think for now productivity will be more of essence. I also need to flatten some construction lumber like studs and doing this with hand plane is not a pleasure.

Anyway, thanks everyone - all the responses were great ! Thanks for the links too!

Nikolay
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