how wet is too wet, or any suggestions?
#9
A young friend of mine is settling into his first house, and asked me to help him build a bar top, he can put in, before Christmas.
Yesterday, he went to a local mill, and cut the wood.
He brought me 3 pcs. of walnut, 3x5" and 2 pcs of red oak, 3x3", all about 5' long.
He wants me to edge glue them, to make a finished top, alternating the wood.
My moisture gauge shows the pieces to be about 30% moisture.
Obviously, too wet. I'm afraid it will self destruct, as it dries.
No local kiln.

I'm considering running a couple lengths of threaded steel rod, through it, front to back, either through holes, or a slot, on the underside.
The back edge is up against a wall, so I could leave the back of the threaded rod exposed, in counterbores so the nuts could be tightened, as it dries.
I would align the boards with splines, to keep the top even.
Then maybe in a couple of years, after it dries, do the final glueup.

I'm open to any other suggestions.

Thanks
Reply
#10
The only suggestion I have is to set that wood aside until it dries enough for use. Trying to develop a workaround for wet wood almost always ends in an unpleasant way.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
Reply
#11
(12-15-2021, 02:20 PM)fredhargis Wrote: The only suggestion I have is to set that wood aside until it dries enough for use. Trying to develop a workaround for wet wood almost always ends in an unpleasant way.

Exactly this ^^^^.  Tell your friend to buy some kiln dried wood if he wants something that will still be there next Christmas.  

John
Reply
#12
30% is way too wet. I would not try working with any lumber above 12%-14% and expecting it to stay at all normal. 

Patience is a virtue.
Reply
#13
Thanks, I talked to him today, and he agreed that Christmas is not a reasonable expectation.
He agreed, we should get the wood dried.
He found a place in NY that could dry it, but the cost shipping from TN makes that pricey.
He has a "history" with the wood, since he helped the sawyer mill it.
Does anyone know of anyone with a kiln in/near middle TN, KY, or even Ohio, that might be a good option for him?
Any suggestions would be appreciated
Thanks
Reply
#14
(12-16-2021, 06:21 PM)rlnguy Wrote: Thanks, I talked to him today, and he agreed that Christmas is not a reasonable expectation.
He agreed, we should get the wood dried.
He found a place in NY that could dry it, but the cost shipping from TN makes that pricey.
He has a "history" with the wood, since he helped the sawyer mill it.
Does anyone know of anyone with a kiln in/near middle TN, KY, or even Ohio, that might be a good option for him?
Any suggestions would be appreciated
Thanks

A quick search gives you this. Most if not all will be able to dry a few pieces of wood for a small fee.

https://www.makefromwood.com/complete-li...n-near-me/

Keep in mind that kilns are not rocket science. It's just a low-temperature convection oven. There are plenty of plans for DIY kilns that involve wrapping plastic sheeting around a stud frame and putting a dehumidifier and/or heater in there. Some are just boxes (plywood or other) with a 100W incandescent bulb for heat and a household box fan. They don't need to be hermetically sealed.
Reply
#15
Thanks,
He's pretty set on the wood he has, so I will turn him loose with the link, and let him contact them.
I don't have room to try to dry it.
Thanks again for the replies, I knew this was a good place to ask.
Reply
#16
(12-15-2021, 02:16 PM)rlnguy Wrote: A young friend of mine is settling into his first house, and asked me to help him build a bar top, he can put in, before Christmas.
Yesterday, he went to a local mill, and cut the wood.
He brought me 3 pcs. of walnut, 3x5" and 2 pcs of red oak, 3x3", all about 5' long.
He wants me to edge glue them, to make a finished top, alternating the wood.
My moisture gauge shows the pieces to be about 30% moisture.
Obviously, too wet. I'm afraid it will self destruct, as it dries.
No local kiln.

I'm considering running a couple lengths of threaded steel rod, through it, front to back, either through holes, or a slot, on the underside.
The back edge is up against a wall, so I could leave the back of the threaded rod exposed, in counterbores so the nuts could be tightened, as it dries.
I would align the boards with splines, to keep the top even.
Then maybe in a couple of years, after it dries, do the final glueup.

I'm open to any other suggestions.

Thanks

You could rip it down to 1" and then sticker and stack for air drying.  If it's a glue up, you could glue it back together after surfacing.
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)

Product Recommendations

Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.