Which hand planes to keep?
  Re: RE: Which hand planes to keep? by Scoony (Warren and Adam, ...)
(01-04-2022, 01:17 PM)Scoony Wrote: Warren and Adam,

One of the questions brought up in the OP was blade configuration. I really would love to hear some input on this.  I keep a slight camber on my Stanley #7.  I find that it is easier to square up an edge when I can shift the plane as necessary to take off more material from either side. I have never had issues with glue-ups, but some folks seem to think that a cambered jointer blade will result in ruined edge joints.  What are your thoughts on this from a traditional/historic/experience point of view?

I think the basic bench planes, smoother, jack/fore, trying plane, all had curved irons of differing degrees. Jointers, sometimes called “gluing jointers” really benefit from a straight blade for match planing. Not a hard and fast rule, but jointers are sometimes longer and more importantly wider than try planes.

When you match plane 2 pieces of 4/4 rough stock, the camber on a try plane probably would make a noticeable difference to a glue up. If you aren’t match planing, and depending on your glue system, a try plane may work well enough and possibly better than that for narrower stock.

Can’t stress enough that these 2 planes, maybe above all others, should be in every woodworker’s shop. They do jobs that $1000’s of machines won’t do.

Regarding wooden planes, metal planes were never thought to be superior. They were cheap and mass produced. Wooden planes required skilled workers for manufacture. A light weight low friction sole is superior for most planing operations. For match and try planes, the longer planes outperform shorter planes. I use a 26” try plane and a 30” jointer. I wish every wood worker had these 2 planes.

The try plane tricks you mention above should have been taught in middle school shop class. Maybe they once were. Every woodworker should be able to do this. I was making cPVC window jambs late last year. I planed the 5 degree bevels with. #7 try plane. I didn’t have any other reliable way to do it. My try plane was fast and efficient.
  Re: Which hand planes to keep? by OneStaple (Hey all, This cou...)
As you said, lots of good advice above. ^^^^

I would say that a #3 scrub plane is a bad idea if your stock is longer than the plane. You will drive yourself crazy trying to flatten a board with a short plane that can go up and down the hills and valleys in the board.

One suggestion that I have not seen above (might have missed it):

It sounds like you are in no financial or shelf-space pinch so:

Put all of the planes away. (Possibly separate the complete planes from those that need parts)

Then, as you use a plane (and you like it), move it to a shelf separate from the bulk storage location.
If you use a plane and find that it just does not work for you, put that in a group to likely pass along.

After a year or so, look at what you have used and what you have not used.

That is a good time to consider whether the unused planes are extras to be passed along or whether you just have not done any projects yet that needed them.

Make the review an annual or semi-annual part of a shop clean-up. That will give you the satisfaction of having a path forward.

When it is time to pass something along, you can post in SnS here, sell locally, donate them, give them away to friends and family, or many other options.
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick

A wish for you all:  May you keep buying green bananas.

Forum Jump:

Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)

Product Recommendations

Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.