iron trouble
Having bought and cleaned up that Type 19 Stanley No. 8c...( $65 + Sales Tax)..
There seemed to be a problem...
Looks nice?   For a ball of strings, maybe...Got that iron back out of the plane, for a looksee..
Yep, that be a problem...and NOT corrected by throwing more cash at it by buying a "New & Improved" iron...that costs more than this plane

Glass of water sitting beside the grinder...grind back at 90 degrees, until the pits are least along the edge..further back doesn't matter, just where the chipbreaker resides needs flat...
Pits are the back a bit, while I grind a new & improved 25 degree flat bevel..the new 6" sanding disc/belt sander's disc for that job...checking often to make sure the edge is square to the side  of the iron..and straight across.   Get to the point that the edge is barely a shiny sliver, then over to the first stone..
Coarse Crystolon.   3in1 oil works well enough...bevel and back get a few trips...wide iron means I go sideways along the, a 600 grit Medium India..
Then the 1500 and 2000 grit wet  or dry papers...set right on an oily bed on top of the 600 stone..
Bevel and back.   Next, didn't feel like dragging the Unicorn Machine back up to the bench, so...
Old Leather Belt strop, and the green stick....20 strokes bevel, 5 strokes back, repeat as needful. 

Polished the chipbreaker for a better fit...the "hump" part was a bit rough....
Next?  well, there was a couple other "issues" to get rid of..
Stay tuned..
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
Bolt has a bad burr going on.....grind that smooth..( spares box didn't have the right sized one)
That point.   It sticks out far enough that you have to take the bolt out, to remove the lever cap.   Underside of the lever cap is very rough, unfinished except for a nickel plate surface,,,,needle file to reduce the point.   It actually was a point..filed it back until it was no longer beveled.   With the bolt also fixed, things work much better..

1st test drive...things were a bit skewed...
Adjusted things a bit, try again..
Decent enough for a jointer plane.   Was a busy afternoon...had a Sargent Jack that also needed worked on..
Sargent No. 3416..later type, no horseshoe..
Air hose and an oily brush to clean things up a bit...
Test drive...iron IS a cambered one..Jack plane like..
Seemed to work as a jack plane should...that shaving will shoot straight up out of there, and will wrap around your wrist..if you let it. 
During all the re-arranging to put planes away...this wound up out on my bench..
Millers Falls No. 9, Type 2.....quite a bit older than the Type 4 I normally use..
May give the Type 4 a rest, and let the Type 2 handle things for a while?

At least the Jointer is working the way it should...
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
Is there a Miller's Falls plane type study out there somewhere? I have a couple that I'd like to know more about.
There IS a Millers Falls Home page.   Just google your plane as a Millers Falls....there will be a site come up about all things Millers Falls...including a little bit about Goodell Pratt  Co. that they took over in the 1930s....

Hand planes were basically 5 "Types"    with T-4 being the last of the "Good Stuff"......if your plane have Phillips headed bolts, that is the dreadful Type 5....
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that

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