Flattening chisel backs
#18
Last one just to prove you can go all the way to a mirror finish on a WS w/ a leather wheel. The part with the hand drill is reflection off the wall behind me in case it isn't clear in the picture.
   
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#19
(02-01-2022, 04:45 PM)Tim J. Chase Wrote: Thanks to all for the responses. I will definitely look for and get a foot switch or maybe a voice activated outlet. 
Tom I did and will again read your sharpening post I was hopping for your response concerning the WS 3000.  
Adam & Timberwolf  if either of you have info on either diamond discs for the WS or the diamond lapping film I'd appreciate the brand or any info.
I wondered about the flatness / consistency of both . I'm sure I'll give the WS  a try as well as some higher grit paper on a finished piece of granite.

............
Amazon has the laps for the best price I have found anywhere.....Here's a link you can peruse...They are very flat steel discs {~.075" thickness} plated with diamond..the six inch discs will fit the WorkSharp but they also sell discs that will fit the Veritas MKII which is 8" dia.
IMO, two additional features would make the machine far more useful to me is variable speed, and the ability to reverse rotation...

Like Tom, I am a big fan of diamond and buy it in powder and paste form..It can be applied to the glass wheel that comes with the WS and use for finaL polishing and it does a super job, but not having diamond paste, you can use Tormek or Durosol paste.. etc. Do not ever be afraid to experiment.

Look through this section.........

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=diamond+lap+p...8_ts-doa-p
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#20
(02-01-2022, 11:52 AM)tablesawtom Wrote: I also did a post using a CBN on a home made gear reduced motor about two years ago. What I found out, at least in my opinion, was that the 60 RPM motor was to slow. I thought at that time a Work Sharp with its speed would work much better.

Adamcherubini stated the disc slows down toward the center. which is true, So I tended to stay out on the rim of the disc when I used the 5 inch disc. If I were using work sharps sand paper I would position the chisel so that the abrasive is exiting the chisel. Abrasives tend to clime into the cutting edge whereas when it exits it doesn't. 

What Timberwolf wrote is spot on. Because of price I think in I had a work sharp I would go diamond over CBN if for no other reason it would be cost. As far a foot switches go, I think that there is always a place in the shop for a foot switch. If I owned a work sharp I would follow Timberwolf's words of wisdom to the letter.







Tom

That is so nice Tom.  Would love to have one of those!!!  
Yes 
Yes
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification.  Thank You Everyone.

It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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#21
(01-31-2022, 09:21 PM)adamcherubini Wrote: I think it’s important to mention that a flat back on a chisel is not a functional requirement. We flatten backs as an aid to sharpening. What we want is a way to hone the back, then return that tool to a stone or something that cuts the same exact places on that back.
It absolutely is essential for paring.
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#22
(02-03-2022, 10:40 AM)rwe2156 Wrote: It absolutely is essential for paring.

Don’t want to quibble and can’t prove it at present, but I believe this to be false. At a minimum, the degree of flatness many of us seek for sharpening is absolutely not essential for paring. I think if we measured the flatness of say, Rob Cosman’s chisels, they would be on the order of magnitude of .0002” flat or flatter. I’m using Rob as an example because we are all familiar with his sharpening technique, thanks to his videos.

I used a framing chisel to pare a log flat and square (with the help of a broad axe). I was able to flatten and smooth that stock without too much trouble and I know that chisel wasn’t flat.

No offense to anyone here. I know many many believe paring requires a dead flat chisel. I wonder how many have tried using chisels that are out of flat. I used to think my old chisels, including framers and slicks were out of flat due to the labor required to make them flat. I still believe that, but now believe they sharpened that way on purpose. A slight back bevel has no performance limitations I can think of including dt chopping. My chisels are only flat to aid sharpening. I think there are performance benefits from a back bevel.
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#23
(02-06-2022, 09:51 PM)adamcherubini Wrote: Don’t want to quibble and can’t prove it at present, but I believe this to be false. At a minimum, the degree of flatness many of us seek for sharpening is absolutely not essential for paring. I think if we measured the flatness of say, Rob Cosman’s chisels, they would be on the order of magnitude of .0002” flat or flatter. I’m using Rob as an example because we are all familiar with his sharpening technique, thanks to his videos.

I used a framing chisel to pare a log flat and square (with the help of a broad axe). I was able to flatten and smooth that stock without too much trouble and I know that chisel wasn’t flat.

No offense to anyone here. I know many many believe paring requires a dead flat chisel. I wonder how many have tried using chisels that are out of flat. I used to think my old chisels, including framers and slicks were out of flat due to the labor required to make them flat. I still believe that, but now believe they sharpened that way on purpose. A slight back bevel has no performance limitations I can think of including dt chopping. My chisels are only flat to aid sharpening. I think there are performance benefits from a back bevel.

Referring to using a chisel on a log which is green wood and using a chisel on dried wood is like comparing apples to watermelon, Both are fruit. Today it has warmed up quite a bit but yesterday it was 10 degrees below zero in my shop at 7am. I use this time at home to work on flattening and sharpening chisels and plane irons. I have lots of plane irons and it is faster and easier to just swop out a plane iron than to stop and sharpen.

Do chisels need to be perfectly flat? Absolutely not. A lot depends on application just as amount of sharpening inters in. How sharp is sharp? How flat is flat. I do not use the ruler trick on plane blades but I do have excess to a surface grinder that will make them flat. And I certainly am not going to back bevel my chisels. but if you wish to do it it is fine with me , you are not wrong in doing so.

I wouldn't get to excited about this thread, you are not going to change anyone's mind. Most will only dig in and defend their position, right or wrong.

Tom.
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#24
(02-08-2022, 02:55 PM)tablesawtom Wrote: I wouldn't get to excited about this thread, you are not going to change anyone's mind. Most will only dig in and defend their position, right or wrong.

Tom.
So true!!

Not trying to have the last word, just to say I guess what I mean is "reasonably flat".. But saying a flat chisel isn't important, well.......sure you can make that work.

I can't get into Cosman's approach for sharpening ww'ing tools. In my hands and for what I do, I can't even tell much difference between 8000 and 16000, much less 32.
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