Flattening chisel backs
#11
Can a person use a Work sharp 3000 to flatten chisel backs and attain the desired result. The chisels in question are a new 12 pc set of Narex profi 3mm thru 50 mm
or is it recommended to only do these manually on a glass or granite surface with sand paper. I don't want to spend a lot on stones or supplies other than added paper.
thanks
Tim
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#12
Maybe. Remember that the work sharp is a spinning disk of abrasive where the abrasive at the outer edge cuts more than the abrasive near the center of the circle. So simply laying a chisel back on the disk and hoping for the best, won’t produce what you want.

I think it’s important to mention that a flat back on a chisel is not a functional requirement. We flatten backs as an aid to sharpening. What we want is a way to hone the back, then return that tool to a stone or something that cuts the same exact places on that back.

You could try the worksharp. I use diamond disks on mine. But I think you’ll find you’ll do just as well with sandpaper on glass. This is also not a perfect solution. PSA backed abrasive mylar on granite is better. DMT diasharp diamond plates are fast cutting and do a pretty good job. But they are not perfectly flat. I find I have to work the backs a little more often than I’d prefer.

I guess I would choose diasharps over a worksharp.
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#13
(01-31-2022, 07:37 PM)Tim J. Chase Wrote: Can a person use a Work sharp 3000 to flatten chisel backs and attain the desired result. The chisels in question are a new 12 pc set of Narex profi 3mm thru 50 mm
or is it recommended to only do these manually on a glass or granite surface with sand paper. I don't want to spend a lot on stones or supplies other than added paper.
thanks
Tim
.............
Yes...I do it all the time....But it is far easier and more precise if you start and stop the machine with a foot switch..this allows you to hold the tool steady with BOTH hands and to use a foot to start/stop the motor. I use a foot switch for lots of other machines as well..Harbor Freight..

I discovered inexpensive diamond lap plates a couple years ago {Amazon} and that's about all I use. Other members have started using them now...I have diamond laps from 220 grit through 3,000. But of course, sandpaper can be used just as easily. Practice on an old chisel until you get the hang of it.
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#14
I would think that one could use a work sharp. I did post a thread on sharpening a chisel and the post got a lot of reviews but only 3 comments, wish is strange for this group. It is still on page one of this forum, take a look.. Remember you do not have to sharpen the whole back.

Tom
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#15
I also did a post using a CBN on a home made gear reduced motor about two years ago. What I found out, at least in my opinion, was that the 60 RPM motor was to slow. I thought at that time a Work Sharp with its speed would work much better.

Adamcherubini stated the disc slows down toward the center. which is true, So I tended to stay out on the rim of the disc when I used the 5 inch disc. If I were using work sharps sand paper I would position the chisel so that the abrasive is exiting the chisel. Abrasives tend to clime into the cutting edge whereas when it exits it doesn't. 

What Timberwolf wrote is spot on. Because of price I think in I had a work sharp I would go diamond over CBN if for no other reason it would be cost. As far a foot switches go, I think that there is always a place in the shop for a foot switch. If I owned a work sharp I would follow Timberwolf's words of wisdom to the letter.

   

   

   

Tom
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#16
(01-31-2022, 07:37 PM)Tim J. Chase Wrote: Can a person use a Work sharp 3000 to flatten chisel backs and attain the desired result. The chisels in question are a new 12 pc set of Narex profi 3mm thru 50 mm
or is it recommended to only do these manually on a glass or granite surface with sand paper. I don't want to spend a lot on stones or supplies other than added paper.
thanks
Tim

Yes you can. I do it all the time. It's not perfect as others have mentioned and a foot activated switch makes it a lot easier. I've only used sandpaper- can't speak to the diamond plates for WS. I usually start on the WS and finish the back on the stones and if you finish with the stones it makes no difference that you started on the WS. I've also used only the WS up thru the leather wheel with some rouge and that works too. Usually, I'm doing basket case rehab of vintage chisels that have been abused, not initial flattening of a decent chisel. The WS makes the process much quicker (for me) and I get good results. Haven't ever ruined a back beyond repair on the WS so if you're carful you'll be fine.
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#17
Thanks to all for the responses. I will definitely look for and get a foot switch or maybe a voice activated outlet. 
Tom I did and will again read your sharpening post I was hopping for your response concerning the WS 3000.  
Adam & Timberwolf  if either of you have info on either diamond discs for the WS or the diamond lapping film I'd appreciate the brand or any info.
I wondered about the flatness / consistency of both . I'm sure I'll give the WS  a try as well as some higher grit paper on a finished piece of granite.
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#18
Interesting - learned some new things I'll have to try out with my worksharp, I really like the idea of the foot switch.  And I had forgotten about the diamond disks available.
"Oh. Um, l-- look, i-- i-- if we built this large wooden badger" ~ Sir Bedevere
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#19
I place my tools tangent to the edge of the disk; i.e. not pointing in toward the center. This will wear the chisel more on the one side than the other. So I alternate sides. On one side of the disk, the grit is moving from the handle to the tip. On the other side, its opposite. I think you cut more where the grit first encounters the blade.

In short, I don’t think a WS is a reliable tool to flatten anything. The disk is too small and the difference in surface feet per minute between any point on the disk and any point an inch from that point is too great. If you go from an initial flattening to a fine flat stone or diamond plate, I think you will see exactly what I’m talking about.

But for rough flattening, where you alternate the chisel on the WS, and where you alternate between stones or plates and the WS, you can do fine. Pretty sure I only restore tools with my WS. Once flat, I don’t dare return to it.

The feature that creates the bevel has always intrigued me. I’ve tried it many times but always gotten iffy results. I’m really more comfortable with a bench grinder or coarse diamond.

I don’t think sharpening is easy or trivial. I know there are many ways. You really have to find what you are comfortable with.
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#20
Since there seems to be some interest- here's my little sharpening corner. You can see the foot pedal below the cabinet if you look close. Second pic is a basket-case plane iron I'm working on. Started at 80 grit and this is 100 grit. It's got some DEEP scratches farther down I was trying to get but gave up and now just trying to get the last half-inch or so flat/ polished. I'll go to 220 on the WS then finish up on stones. For my WS set-up I bought extra plates and keep 80/120- 220/220- 400/1000 sandpaper and a leather wheel that I use whatever honing compound I have available. I keep one disk w/ 220 on both sides so I can do bevel and back at 220 and then I usually finish on the stones.
   
   
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