Hi, beginner with some questions.
#61
im not smart lol i just listen to the advice people give me. got an electrician to install 2x 20amp circuits in the garage and some new led shop lights.
bought the HF 2hp DC today, they said it was discontinued so not sure if they're bringing out a new model or not. my guess would be a new 1hp model?

still waiting on the tax return to see which sawstop i can get. the wait is....long.
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#62
(02-26-2022, 03:34 PM)jteneyck Wrote: First off, Welcome!  You'll find lots of knowledgeable and helpful folks here.  Space is always a problem, no matter how much you have it never will be enough.  Faced with your situation I would get the SawStop.  It's the only one that will save your fingers should you do something stupid.  And no offense, but beginners and long time users who get careless are the most likely to have an accident.  I'd also get a circular saw and a straightedge for breaking down sheet goods into manageable pieces before putting them on the TS.  Track saws are nice, but you don't need to spend all that money to get a straight cut.  My straightedge is nothing more than a piece of plywood about 12" wide and 8 feet long.  

A space saving option is to forget a TS altogether and get a nice track saw and MFT type table.  If you plan to only make cabinets this may work OK.  

And to save the most space, maybe, become a handtool user.  All furniture was made with nothing more than handtools back in the day.  But that lends itself best to solid wood, not sheet goods.  If you plan to use plywood, etc. Option A or B is the better choice.  

John

......................
Good advice!!!!
"If you don't read newspapers you're uninformed...If you do read newspapers, you're misinformed.....Mark Twain

Jack Edgar, Sgt. USMC Korea, the Forgotten War 50/55
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#63
*update*
The bank of wife has approved funds. I'm getting the 36" PCS, also got the super dust deputy. Happy days!!
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#64
(03-18-2022, 11:26 AM)Leandre Wrote: *update*
The bank of wife has approved funds. I'm getting the 36" PCS, also got the super dust deputy. Happy days!!

Congrats on the new toys!

Doug
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#65
(03-19-2022, 08:58 AM)Tapper Wrote: Congrats on the new toys!

Doug

thank you ^^

now just waiting for the electrician to come and install 2x 20amp circuits and some new shop lights then i can start putting things together. i did try to lift the saw upright on my own...yeah not happening.
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#66
2 very strong fellows are the minimum; I forgot if ss recommends 3 or 4.

Simon
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#67
(03-20-2022, 02:26 PM)Handplanesandmore Wrote: 2 very strong fellows are the minimum; I forgot if ss recommends 3 or 4.

Simon

ended up asking a neighbor to come help. we got it on a home depot doly so i can move it around till it finds its final resting place. since lumber prices are stupid right now im just planning to put a sheet of plywood on some sawhorses till prices are affordable to build an outfeed table.

yesterday i saw on facebook market place a rockler router table top with a woodpecker router lift and a hitachi something something router for $200. my question is, should i just build a router table on the wheels and move it out about or use that extra table that came with the 36" sawstop and add the lift on that? the rail that came with the sawstop is the router version with all the holes precut. the guy at the store said he couldnt find the reg 36" and gave me this one. 

again, thanks for all the replies and advice.
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#68
I'm not a fan of the tablesaw-router table combo setup. #1) you can only use the router table at the end of the tablesaw (left side or right side), #2) you may not be able to use the tablesaw if the router fence setting  needs to be kept, or until after the router operation is done. Or vice versa.

I'd rather build a router table that can slide under the tablesaw table if space saving is a reason.

Simon
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#69
no particular reason. ive never used a router before so asking if their was a preferred way. plus it'll be easier to make a stand then to use thr router to cut a hole for the lift. im gonna need to practice this.
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#70
I got rid of my router table in favor of an extension on my table saw.  It saved space and I lost none of it's utility.  I use an auxiliary fence that clamps to the table saw fence.  If I'm using the fence with the router table and then have to rip something on the table saw, I just clamp the auxilliary fence to the router table, release the clamps that hold it to the table saw fence, and then slide table saw fence to make my cut(s).  Unless I have to move the auxilliary fence, all is well.  If I do, I just bring the table saw fence back against the auxilliary fence, clamp the two together, and go about my business.  

John
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