Warped Door
#18
(03-14-2022, 10:13 AM)Mike 55 Wrote: John,

I do have a moisture meter as I used to kiln dry my own wood. That was many years ago and before my friend arthritis set in. Since moving south for retirement I'm now in a garage shop and have no way of controlling RH. I always followed your way of thinking when I was up north but space and time gets in the way. I've made a bunch of stuff since moving here and not had an issue but I will dig out my moisture meter to check it our before and after i joint and plane. Since most of the wood I purchase is through our woodworkers club (we have a 10K sqft shop) with every tool you can think of I will do a test before I buy it. It's stored in the shop which is condition space. It's amazing how much you forget as you get older. 

I think I need to kick it back to just 2 Martini's per day. LOL

It's all good Mike.  As long as you enjoy it keep at it.  I have a friend who will be 80 this year who has pretty severe RA and he is still amazingly productive.  The Hal Taylor rocking chairs he makes would be impressive for a person of any age.  

It sounds like the wood you are getting is drier than the EMC for your shop.  That's fine, just follow the same approach.  

I've been to Bluffton a couple of times.  Beautiful area.  Glad I'm not there in Summer though. But you can gloat right now.  We had 3" of snow on Saturday.   

John
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#19
(03-14-2022, 11:48 AM)jteneyck Wrote: It's all good Mike.  As long as you enjoy it keep at it.  I have a friend who will be 80 this year who has pretty severe RA and he is still amazingly productive.  The Hal Taylor rocking chairs he makes would be impressive for a person of any age.  

It sounds like the wood you are getting is drier than the EMC for your shop.  That's fine, just follow the same approach.  

I've been to Bluffton a couple of times.  Beautiful area.  Glad I'm not there in Summer though. But you can gloat right now.  We had 3" of snow on Saturday.   

John

Yea, it's nice and cool here this time of the year but I lived in northeast PA and lived through our fair number of cold days and snow. I moved in 2015 and make fun of our friends every winter. Of course come the summer they roast us with the heat and humidity we get.
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#20
Another method I've used that seems to work is to glue two pieces of material together, flat side to flat side, obviously concave side to concave side. The two pieces will be thicker than your final target dimension, but after jointing and planing, since it will be painted it doesn't matter, as the glue-line will not show. Seems to stabilize any movement in the new piece.

You might give it a try on a test piece. John is "the man" when it comes to wood "technology" so his suggestions are pretty much fool-proof IMO. I don't own a moisture meter, so take what I say with a grain of salt!

Good luck,

Doug
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#21
Just because it's the same moisture content doesn't mean it's the same stability.
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#22
Uncontrolled RH in a shop is always an issue. Ideally, you should acclimate the wood inside the house for a few months prior to milling.

Making doors with long stiles long is always risky business. Rift saw or QS lumber is best, but no guarantee. Definitely stay away from flat sawn!

Here's a technique I can say works that I learned from Charles Neil. He calls it "splining"

Basically you plow the grooves in the stiles deep within 1/8" of the outside edge. Glue in a spline and clamp to a flat surface. You need a hard setting glue like plastic resin, epoxy can work too. I think PR works better than epoxy.

Then replow the groove. You will have rock solid stile with a lot resistance to bending. The spline is usually almost invisible (or invisible if painted), even so its on the top/bottom & never seen.

A little too late, but thought I'd offer it.
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#23
(03-15-2022, 09:57 AM)rwe2156 Wrote: Uncontrolled RH in a shop is always an issue.  Ideally, you should acclimate the wood inside the house for a few months prior to milling.

Making doors with long stiles long is always risky business.  Rift saw or QS lumber is best, but no guarantee.  Definitely stay away from flat sawn!

Here's a technique I can say works that I learned from Charles Neil.  He calls it "splining"

Basically you plow the grooves in the stiles deep within 1/8" of the outside edge.  Glue in a spline and clamp to a flat surface.  You need a hard setting glue like plastic resin, epoxy can work too.  I think PR works better than epoxy.

Then replow the groove.  You will have rock solid stile with a lot resistance to bending.  The spline is usually almost invisible (or invisible if painted), even so its on the top/bottom & never seen.

A little too late, but thought I'd offer it.

This sounds very interesting. How deep should I go on a 2 1/4" style? I tried looking for this process on his website and did not find anything. It would kill me to use QS and then paint it. I was thinking of putting a tenon on 3 sides of the middle rail. That would cut the length of the style in half. It would be a fun glue up.
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#24
(03-15-2022, 08:12 AM)jcclark Wrote: Just because it's the same moisture content doesn't mean it's the same stability.

If the moisture content is constant and in equilibrium with your shop then only internal stresses from reaction wood (growth related) or poor drying would cause it to move when you cut it.  Letting it sit 2 weeks or two years isn't going to make it any better.  I did read once in FWW of all places that dropping your lumber on the shop floor a few times prior to cutting it releases the internal stresses.  Were it only true.  

John
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