Latest tool acquisition

[MT Woodworker]

Latest tool 

Picked up locally, came with stand, going to build a mobile base. 
Already has the riser block kit installed, and a 3/4” resaw blade.
Needs a little cleaning and such, but should be a great addition to the shop.

Takes 105” blades, best source?

Mark 

[attachment=41258]

[barryvabeach]

Mark,  nice addition.  Some prefer different blades for different tasks.  I just go with one blade, a 1/2 low tooth count, and went with Lennox Diemaster 2,  it seems to last a long time.

[Timberwolf]

Latest tool 

Picked up locally, came with stand, going to build a mobile base. 
Already has the riser block kit installed, and a 3/4” resaw blade.
Needs a little cleaning and such, but should be a great addition to the shop.

Takes 105” blades, best source?

Mark 

.......................
After you get it set up and tuned, the next thing I would do is learn to sharpen your blades right on the machine. When done correctly, they will be sharper than new..I have done it this way for almost 20 years..saving big bucks on new blades over the years. As far as I know, I was the first person to do it this way. And I posted how I did it, right here on this forum.. This guy made a pretty good video showing the procedure..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_akVVJo3G0M

[jteneyck]

That should serve you well.  I agree with Barry, a 1/2" x 3 tpi blade is your best all-around choice.  14" cast iron saws can't put enough tension on a 3/4" blade for it to cut effectively, despite the manufacturer saying one can be used.  You'll only get around 12,000 psi with a 1/2" blade which is barely adequate but that's far better than how little you'll get with a 3/4" one.    

John

  Edit:  Actually, your best all around choice on that saw is a 3/8" x 4 tpi.  It can rip, even resaw, as well as cut fairly tight curves.  The 1/2" x 3 tpi is the best choice for resawing and veneer slicing.  If you have a larger saw for resawing, as I do, then a 1/4" x 4 or 6 tpi blade is a great choice on the 14" one.  That's what I have on mine for everything but thick resawing work.

[Rob Young]

.......................
After you get it set up and tuned, the next thing I would do is learn to sharpen your blades right on the machine. When done correctly, they will be sharper than new..I have done it this way for almost 20 years..saving big bucks on new blades over the years. As far as I know, I was the first person to do it this way. And I posted how I did it, right here on this forum.. This guy made a pretty good video showing the procedure..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_akVVJo3G0M

This.

I have the same saw and when I bought it I got a couple extra of the house branded Grizzly blades. Mostly I use a 1/2" on it (3tpi, 4? I can't remember right now) because most of my bandsaw use is breaking down stock or re-sawing. 

Once the Grizzly blade was sharpened it has worked great. I'm on the second one because you can only sharpen so many times before you loose too much set from the blade. And honestly, I didn't feel like resetting all the teeth on a $15 (at the time) blade.  Didn't keep track but maybe sharpened it half a dozen times in a year. Not a daily user of the saw. 

That said, I also have some Timberwolf branded blades (no relation to above!) for the next round. They were on sale and I've used them in the past. But they too will get sharpened before and during use.

The sharpening lasts a decent amount of time. I re-sharpen when it feels like there is effort when cutting through >2" material. Or if I just cut out a bunch of MDF template parts. MDF & plywood are tough on blades.

[MT Woodworker]

Thanks to all for the reply’s and suggestions.

I will be ordering some blades next week.  Finishing a home project, so I will get to cleaning, tune up, etc of the saw this weekend.

Looks to be a good solid tool.

Mark

[iclark]

If you turn, the Highland Hardware WoodTurner blade is hard to beat.

I have been happy with their WoodSlicer blade as well, but I don't really have any experience with other brands.

A couple thoughts:
- if you are going to have several blades, find a way to label them when they are not on the BS (then use it) DAMHIK

- if you are going to do the fold-up-to-half-size trick (like the car sun shields) be sure to wear gloves and a faceshield that you do not care about scratching up while learning to do that fold and unfold

[KyleD]

- if you are going to do the fold-up-to-half-size trick (like the car sun shields) be sure to wear gloves and a faceshield that you do not care about scratching up while learning to do that fold and unfold

I learned to do this many years ago. Folding the blades is drama free. Unfolding the wider ones especially can be exciting. I learned to take them outside and let the blades fly free into the grass away from me.

[MT Woodworker]

Have the band saw back on the stand. Still some more fine tuning to do.
I had some casters so it is movable.
Has a small dimple where the upper door was shut to hard and hit the upper wheel shaft, I will remove as much of that I can.

[attachment=41362]

[Cian]

Takes 105” blades, best source?

Go here:

https://www.timberwolfblades.com/

Call and tell them what model saw you have and your intended purpose. If they don't have it as a stock item, they can build it for you. Great folks and service.