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03-20-2022, 11:20 AM
(This post was last modified: 03-20-2022, 11:32 AM by Wild Turkey.)
As I sit here admiring the dozen stitches the doc put in my left index finger after cleaning up cut from dado that didn't heal my adult sons are making it clear they would much prefer that I sell my vintage Unisaw and get a SawStop. They can be as subtle as their dear mother and there's two of them so I am clearly outclassed.
So as I study the situation the big question is power.
The 1.75 HP version is listed as 110v -- is it convertible to 220 v or is 110 plenty?
My current Unisaw has a 52" fence but I'm studying it carefully to see if I really need that much fence.
Any other factors I should consider in deciding which one to go with?
"Truth is a highway leading to freedom" --Kris Kristofferson
Wild Turkey
We may see the writing on the wall, but all we do is criticize the handwriting.
(joined 10/1999)
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03-20-2022, 12:24 PM
(This post was last modified: 03-20-2022, 12:33 PM by Handplanesandmore.)
If your decision is to get the 1.75HP, choose the 220V version.
Get the 3HP if you often deal with lumber that's 2-1/2" or thicker, or if budget isn't much a concern.
I'd spend money on 36" T glide, overarm dust collection/ blade guard, ICS base (conversion kit) and a ww ii rip 20-t blade (not necessary if it's a 3HP) plus a 1.75HP. 220v PCS.
Simon
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The 120V should be plenty with that motor. My Delta contractor saw had one of those "magic" motors that was labeled 1.5 HP at 120, and 2 HP at 240V. Turns out the truth was that the motor was 2HP regardless of voltage, and the downrating at 120V was to meet something (UL listing, I think). So I ran it several years at 120V and never had a problem....and always had plenty of power. That said, when I moved up to a Unisaw I did like having the 3 HP motor. If I hadn't moved up I would have been a happy camper with the power of my contractor, but after using the 3 HP saw I think it would be harder to go the other way.
PS, you didn't specifically ask about the fence but I'll comment anyway. For the years I had a 36" fence, I needed extra capacity maybe 4-5 times. After moving to a 52" fence on the Unisaw I used the extra capacity maybe 4-5 times...all this was over a stretch of 30 years or so. But I suspect your shop has ample room, better to go big.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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Unless you do production work 1.75 HP is plenty IMO. 120 or 240V is irrelevant, HP is HP as long as the wire gage is sufficient to carry the amps required. The thing about more HP is that if you get a kick back it could be a lot more violent than on a lower HP saw. There is equipment to reduce the chance of a kick back but they don't work in every situation. I have a 1.5 HP motor on my old Unisaw. It cuts 2" oak w/o issue, not as fast as 3 HP would, but fast enough. Anything thicker than that gets cut on the bandsaw.
John
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03-20-2022, 12:54 PM
(This post was last modified: 03-20-2022, 01:01 PM by Handplanesandmore.)
110v vs 220 v
https://www.finewoodworking.com/forum/wh...-table-saw
I have used pcs 1,75HP 110v, pcs 1.75HP 220v and ics 5HP. I wouldn't hesitate for a second to spend more for a 220v 1.75HP as all my circuits are 15A, none 20A.
Be warned: 1.75HP PCS could struggle with thick, 8' long stock, even binding could happen despite the riving knife. You have to push hard! Of course, no worries if you deal with mostly 2" thick stock or less, and 3" stock only occasionally.
Simon
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Sorry about your stitches. Post back here a month after you get the SS and let us know what you think. When I bought mine, I was told it was a great saw even without the brake technology, and I agree, I think you will find it a nice upgrade in terms of tuning it, and useful features.
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03-20-2022, 01:05 PM
(This post was last modified: 03-20-2022, 01:06 PM by Handplanesandmore.)
ss is great, but according to a recent discussion in another forum, it's a question whether ss people still use push sticks!
Simon
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I swapped my Craftsman 22124 for a 1.75 hp cabinet style SawStop when they were first released. I am a hobbyist.
I have no regrets with the choice. I use a lot of oak, and built a bedroom set out of Bubinga. The 1.75 had plenty of power.
Of course, I don't work with dull blades.
--
See ya later,
Bill
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The 220v 3hp will be a lot quieter. Something else to consider.
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If it were me and extra money wasn’t a huge hinderance I would get the 3hp. I don’t have a ss but did have a 1.75 craftsman zip code then upgraded to a pm3k 3hp and the power difference makes ripping thicker stock much easier. For me if I were paying for a high end saw I would spend the extra $500 or so and get the extra hp and not have the regrets. Ymmv This is assuming you have or can get access to 220 in your shop.
