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(03-20-2022, 04:36 PM)Aram Wrote: Card or cabinet scrapers are my go-to solution for tearout. I don't use oak, so I don't know how well it scrapes. Worth a try, if you don't mind a slight hollow in that area.
Oak responds to card scraping (and #80) very, very well.
So does ash for that matter.
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It's become a moot point. I found that the panel is cupped, and the outer edges (one of which has this tear out), need to be planed down.
So there's that.
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(03-20-2022, 10:01 PM)Willyou Wrote: Please note that I suggested applying the epoxy first with the gel stain on top after sanding it smooth.
In my opinion, those chip-outs are too deep to plane or scrape away.
moot for the OP now, but could you help me understand why epoxy before stain?
is that because the tear out area would otherwise absorb more stain than the areas that had been burnished or just sanded?
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I’ve looked at the picture over and over and I have to say, it looks more like an oak cellular structure failure from disease or maltreatment than it does tearout.
Relevant to what it could mean for its future.
Gary
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Mix some of the sawdust from your board with some PVA glue into a paste, then spread that into the tearout. Use a putty knife or scraper to level it off. It will stain just like the original board.
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(03-21-2022, 09:26 PM)®smpr_fi_mac® Wrote: It's become a moot point. I found that the panel is cupped, and the outer edges (one of which has this tear out), need to be planed down.
So there's that.
Save the tearout piece if you want to try this method for the future. Without doing anything other than light sanding, dont fill yet, go ahead and stain and at least one finish coat on it. Let dry, place a piece of glass on top and mix the filler to match the piece under the glass, apply filler, sand and apply top coat. This way you are matching the final colors without the differences in how the filler absorbed the stain. Roly
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03-24-2022, 07:40 PM
(This post was last modified: 03-24-2022, 07:43 PM by Willyou.)
(03-23-2022, 05:49 PM)iclark Wrote: moot for the OP now, but could you help me understand why epoxy before stain?
is that because the tear out area would otherwise absorb more stain than the areas that had been burnished or just sanded?
Yes. If you apply the stain to the tear-out, the jagged edges will absorb more stain and look darker than the smooth surface. Filling with clear epoxy will result in a spot that will look very much like clear finish and will be much less apparent particularly under stain and finish. It will also seal the jagged edges so that the stain will not be absorbed leaving dark edges. Gel stain is designed to stay largely on the surface and will adhere to the epoxy much like a toner. This technique is a bit more tricky on lighter woods like oak than it is on a darker wood like cherry. On oak or maple, it is good to use the clearest epoxy you can find depending on the color of your stain.
In my experience, mixing glue with sawdust always ends up looking darker that the original wood. I have had the best success doing that using epoxy and being very careful about the amount of sawdust (sanding dust) that I use. The greater amount of sanding dust the darker it is. Mix it so the mixture still has a bit of transparency works best for me.
