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Thanks very much for that input. That's a really interesting concept and I think it could work on the shooting board. The pivot stop is 10" long, so there would have to be some kind of extension arm to accommodate parts longer than that. Seems like it could work, though.
John
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The very first person who contacted me asked if I planned on adding any additional features, one of which was adjustable and replaceable wear pieces on the front of the pivot stop. I had thought about it prior to offering it for sale, and his inquiry was the catalyst to actually figure out how to incorporate that feature. So, here it is.
There is over 1/2" of adjustment available as the parts wear, after which they can be swapped end for end to provide another 1/2" of wear adjustment.
Same great deal, just an added benefit.
As an aside, I use a Bailey #6 with the shooting board, shown in some of the photos. I bought it from Tablesaw Tom a few years. He ground the sole flat and the sides perpendicular; did a nice job. It's a great all-around plane. If it had one shortcoming, however, it was the stock Stanley blade and especially the chip breaker. So last week I ordered a Hock replacement blade and chip breaker, the A2 cryogenic treated version. Wow. It took awhile to get the back truly flat and polished but after that sharpening the bevel went pretty fast. 8000 grit waterstone and it shines like a mirror. It shaves hair off my arm w/o a problem. Better still, it makes shooting miters so much easier, almost mindlessly simple. If you are struggling with a stock Stanley blade/chipbreaker, I recommend the Hock replacements w/o hesitation.
John
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Hi John,
The wear pieces are a great addition and that was my first question I had, too. What is the width of the actual shooting ramp, about 2.5”? I use a wooden shooting plane that is 3” high so wondering how that would be? I also use a LA jack, which I’m guessing would be fine on it.
Thanks, nice product!
Kevin
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(04-09-2022, 09:07 AM)kwadams Wrote: Hi John,
The wear pieces are a great addition and that was my first question I had, too. What is the width of the actual shooting ramp, about 2.5”? I use a wooden shooting plane that is 3” high so wondering how that would be? I also use a LA jack, which I’m guessing would be fine on it.
Thanks, nice product!
Kevin
Thanks. Yes, the width of the shooting ramp is 2.5", per the dimensions listed in the first post. The base plate is easily changed, however, to whatever is needed, either at the time of purchase or by the owner later on. Unlike some offerings, mine is screwed, not glued, together, which makes it possible to modify or repair.
John
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John, Great idea and execution. Some of the photos make it appear that the plane ramp is angled but I suspect that is just an illusion? Second question is whether you have an idea for a donkey ear shooting board in the future? I'v made several over the years and none have ever worked well for me
PM being sent to order one of these.
Al
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(04-09-2022, 01:20 PM)LongLook Wrote: John, Great idea and execution. Some of the photos make it appear that the plane ramp is angled but I suspect that is just an illusion? Second question is whether you have an idea for a donkey ear shooting board in the future? I've made several over the years and none have ever worked well for me
PM being sent to order one of these.
Al
The plane ramp is flat, not angled. I built one with an angled ramp a few years ago and did not find any decided advantage using it, the bevel angle is too small to provide any real shear angle to the blade. I've read that the ramp helps reduce wear on the blade as more of it is used. That is true if you are shooting the edge of a wide board, but the work most people do involves stock less than 6".
I have thought about adding a donkey ear feature but haven't given it any design time yet. It's on my to-do list! I have one on an older sled. When I use it I get reminded that a sharp blade is key to any shooting board working well.
Thank you.
John
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OK, Arlin, you asked for one and here it is, a length stop system for my shooting boards. It's based on a piece of universal T-track and a Powertec flip stop. But to make it work with the shooting board I replaced the flipper with one made to fit the height of the pivot stop on the shooting board.
I can include it as part of a new build or it can be retrofit to an existing board by cutting a rabbett in the top edge of the pivot stop to house the T-track.
It works with both square and mitered parts.
Obviously, you could add two or more of the flip stops to the track if you needed to have multiple length options on a project. And the T track is easily moved from the left to right side of the pivot stop, as needed.
The Powertec Flip stop costs about $15 and the 24" T track about $10. You can buy them yourself and just buy the UHMW flip stop from me for $15 including shipping, or you can buy everything as a kit for $60, including shipping. If ordered as an option with one of my shooting boards the price is $50.
John
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John,
Nice idea. If I could make a suggestion - use 2 stops with the flip arms on opposite sides.
You'd set the one stop with the arm up at the desired length of the board and then use the other stop with the arm down to push the board until it contacts the other stop. This way you can shoot to repeatable lengths.
Cliff
‘The problem with the world is that intelligent people are full of doubts, while the stupid ones are full of confidence
Charles Bukowski
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(06-04-2022, 09:15 AM)cpolubin Wrote: John,
Nice idea. If I could make a suggestion - use 2 stops with the flip arms on opposite sides.
You'd set the one stop with the arm up at the desired length of the board and then use the other stop with the arm down to push the board until it contacts the other stop. This way you can shoot to repeatable lengths.
Cliff
Hi Cliff. Can you make a sketch or explain it differently? I don't understand how that would work. How would the second flip stop push the board under the one that's sitting on top? Clearly, I'm missing what you mean. Thanks.
John
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06-04-2022, 04:45 PM
(This post was last modified: 06-04-2022, 05:06 PM by cpolubin.)
John,
I'll try to be clearer.
Start with 2 Flip stops, one with the flip arm on the right, that's the left stop. One with the flip arm on the left, that's the right stop. When they are sitting side by side the flip arms are in the middle. This is so it works shooting on either side of the shooting board.
Let's say you're shooting on the right side. Set the left stop with the arm down so the right side of the arm is at your desired length. Then slide the right stop with the arm up until it touches the left stop and tighten it down. The arm on the right stop isn't used in this instance. The stop is used as a limit for the left stop's travel. Slide the left stop over enough to clear the board being trimmed (which is longer than the desired length) and use the arm of the left stop to push the board as it's trimmed until it meets the right stop. Now your board is the desired length and you can shoot any number of boards to the same length.
Hope that helps. I've been running back and forth to the rehab center that my wife's at and it may be a bit before I can get to Sketchup for a drawing.
Cliff
‘The problem with the world is that intelligent people are full of doubts, while the stupid ones are full of confidence
Charles Bukowski
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