Moxon Vise
#45
I'm attaching a few pictures of my vise in case it helps. A couple of the nuts in/on the rear face and one of the elongated hole for the rod.

For embedding the nut in the face of the chop, I used a Forster bit of roughly the same size and cleared out the six corners by hand with a chisel. Easy enough to do.

I recommend the elongated hole. That allows you to set one side to the thickness of your workpiece and only loosen/tighten the other wheel to clamp and release. I only move my left wheel when the thickness of the workpiece changes. The single wheel clamping also makes it easier to hold your workpiece in one hand while tightening down. And crubber helps with this entire process too.

In response to your last question (even though it was to Derek), I made my front chop slightly taller than the rear so it can be used to register against the bench. You can also just be careful with placement, but you wouldn't want the rear chop to be behind the edge of your bench, or else you'll likely compress the wood on your bench or the workpiece, depending on which is harder.

Tyler

[Image: UuBHeE.jpg]

[Image: mVJVwK.jpg]

[Image: TqqqzA.jpg]
Reply
#46
Thanks for the explanation and the photos, Tyler. Looks like this is the most common way to secure the rods to the rear jaw.

Doug
Reply
#47
(04-25-2022, 08:43 PM)Tapper Wrote: Derek, looking at your build on your web site I thought that's what you had done. I may have overlooked it but what is the thickness of the jaws (chops) on your vise, please? Also, did you make the front jaw a little wider (top to bottom) so that it would register against the front of your bench at the bottom?

Thanks,

Doug

Doug, I would guess the chop to be 1 1/4” - 1 1/2” thick. It is Jarrah, which is hard and stiff, so less thickness is needed.

The lower side of the chop is level with the rear. It is a simple matter to line up with the edge of the bench. I usually position it a smidgeon over the bench (keeping it all flat also makes it easier to store).

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
Reply
#48
(04-26-2022, 10:15 AM)Derek Cohen Wrote: Doug, I would guess the chop to be 1 1/4” - 1 1/2” thick. It is Jarrah, which is hard and stiff, so less thickness is needed.

The lower side of the chop is level with the rear. It is a simple matter to line up with the edge of the bench. I usually position it a smidgeon over the bench (keeping it all flat also makes it easier to store).

Regards from Perth

Derek

Excellent point on the storage, Derek. In the video I watched, the lady attached two "spinners" (wings made out of wood) on the faces of the two mounting "ears" of the rear jaw. Spin them down and it registered the inside face of the rear jaw with the front of the workbench. For storage just spin them back to parallel and they're out of the way and the bottom is flat.

Doug
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)

Product Recommendations

Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.