04-25-2022, 09:16 PM
I'm attaching a few pictures of my vise in case it helps. A couple of the nuts in/on the rear face and one of the elongated hole for the rod.
For embedding the nut in the face of the chop, I used a Forster bit of roughly the same size and cleared out the six corners by hand with a chisel. Easy enough to do.
I recommend the elongated hole. That allows you to set one side to the thickness of your workpiece and only loosen/tighten the other wheel to clamp and release. I only move my left wheel when the thickness of the workpiece changes. The single wheel clamping also makes it easier to hold your workpiece in one hand while tightening down. And crubber helps with this entire process too.
In response to your last question (even though it was to Derek), I made my front chop slightly taller than the rear so it can be used to register against the bench. You can also just be careful with placement, but you wouldn't want the rear chop to be behind the edge of your bench, or else you'll likely compress the wood on your bench or the workpiece, depending on which is harder.
Tyler
For embedding the nut in the face of the chop, I used a Forster bit of roughly the same size and cleared out the six corners by hand with a chisel. Easy enough to do.
I recommend the elongated hole. That allows you to set one side to the thickness of your workpiece and only loosen/tighten the other wheel to clamp and release. I only move my left wheel when the thickness of the workpiece changes. The single wheel clamping also makes it easier to hold your workpiece in one hand while tightening down. And crubber helps with this entire process too.
In response to your last question (even though it was to Derek), I made my front chop slightly taller than the rear so it can be used to register against the bench. You can also just be careful with placement, but you wouldn't want the rear chop to be behind the edge of your bench, or else you'll likely compress the wood on your bench or the workpiece, depending on which is harder.
Tyler