Advice Needed
#20
(04-18-2022, 12:41 PM)jstraw Wrote: I’ve redone a couple of benches.  With the hardware and the mounting method that the manufacture used originally, the original did not have mortise and tenon joints. I did use epoxy if needed.  If you need tenons, perhaps floating tenons cut with a router would be easier.

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I used some leftover ipe deck boards for these.  Definitely weather resistant, but added some serious weight to the bench.


Nice. I like the look of the Ipe. How did you do the joint's?
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#21
(No-rot) Dowels would be my first choice (unless you have a domino machine). Simple, strong and easy to restore (if it comes to that). Epoxy would also be my choice of glue.

Simon
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#22
(04-18-2022, 07:43 PM)Handplanesandmore Wrote: (No-rot) Dowels would be my first choice (unless you have a domino machine). Simple, strong and easy to restore (if it comes to that). Epoxy would also be my choice of glue.

Simon

I wish I did have a Domino Machine. Festool = great tools, from what I see. But man they are pricey.
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#23
Thumbs Up 
Pinned mortise and tenons . +++

The joints need to be tight, maybe floating tenons would be the best way to go but then pins on both sides.

Any waterproof glue is fine, TB3, epoxy, polyurethane.
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#24
(04-18-2022, 09:40 AM)RonRock Wrote: Thanks guys for the help.

My frame is 3/4" oak.

The cast iron is mounted to the oak by screws into the wood in the backside. On the outer cast iron frame there was originally threaded inserts into the wood and screws through the cast frame into the inserts. I plan to simply follow that.

My thoughts on a miter cut corner is that I could do a through cut for the mortise. If I leave the joint square I will have to figure out how to do a stopped cut for the mortise. Part of the reason I first considered biscuits. Sadly I sold my mortise cutter years ago after it sat unused for some time. I knew better at the time not to sell it, but it took up bench space and used very little.

I would much rather have that joint square than mitered, just not sure how.

The flat (level when in use) section of the top rail looks more than long enough to sit flat on a drill press table clamped to a fence for drilling out most of the waste for the stopped mortise. Then take it to your work bench and use a chisel to clean out the mortise.

If you need more HowTo, I am sure that someone in HandTools can point you to their favorite youtube vid on making mortises. (Searching is not my friend tonight. sorry)
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick

A wish for you all:  May you keep buying green bananas.
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#25
Well I have made some progress on this project. I figured I'd give a little feedback and let everyone that took the time to help see that I did actually listen.

So it seemed that probably the best option was Mortise & Tenon joinery. I decided that my best option for that would be to use my smaller Enco mill as a toolholder and the table to hold my woodworking vice. That would give me solid control of the router bit for the mortice cuts, and a dry (not oily) vice for the oak. So I spent the better part of an afternoon setting up my wood vice on my mill then tramming it in only to find that there was way too much chatter in the wood vice. A total waste of time. Very disappointing. Sorry no pictures of that Cluster F***k.

After that disappointment and more thought I decided to mount he vice to my wood bench and make a jig so that I could use my plunge router for the mortice cuts. The jig had to be flat, square and able to hold my stock solidly in the exact same position for 8 cuts. Took some time to get that all in order, I did not want to foul the frame that I already spent so much time shaping. But eventually I cobbled up a jig that I felt  would get this done.


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#26
Looks pretty crappy, but I only needed it for 8 cuts. 2 sets of frames.

So I got 2 1/2 of the mortice's cut and broke my 1/4" bit. Of course it was my only 1/4" straight bottoming bit. After a trip to Home Depot I had a new one. Got the mortice's cut, took some time on each tennon cut. It all turned out good. Then went after some epoxy.

Pretty happy with the results so far. Hope it stands the test of time and weather.


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#27
Epoxy is slow to set. I'll follow up when I have more to show. One frame is out of clamps and the other is in clamps.

Appreciate the guidance.
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#28
(04-17-2022, 03:29 PM)RonRock Wrote: Thank You, jteneyck. I didn't even think about Gorilla Glue. Might be a good idea. What Epoxy would be considered? Never used an epoxy in woodworking.

I could do a mortise on the top and bottom with a 45* miter. Then make a tenon on the sides.

I was planning on Tigtebond Exterior glue. Mostly because I didn't even think about Gorilla glue.

Also never heard of drawboard M&T's.

Edit, After my reply I did a Google and found out about Drawboard M&T. Good in some situations, but probably overkill for this project. It's just a garden bench after all. But thanks for the eye opener. Good to keep in mind.

Give it a shot and tell us how it went!
Big Grin
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