New Bathroom Faucet installation... leak! Pictures
#11
Hello All,

I just installed a new faucet in the bathroom and the installation went fairly well except I have a leak where the PVC connects to the drain stub out (where the PVC P Trap connects to the pipe coming out of the wall).

It looks like the previous owner jerry-rigged things as there is a metal (zinc?) connector which in between the pipe coming out of the wall and the PVC. I can tighten the connector piece but it is moveable along the pipe and the PVC. The leak occurs closest to the wall where the nut is.

The first picture below is a picture of the connector and the second is a picture of the whole setup.

I went to Ferguson's and bought a 1.25" Flexible connector (to replace the metal one) and it works on the pipe coming from the wall but it is too big for the PVC. I may try and drop down to a 1" Flexible connector to see if a smaller connector will work. Please see the 3rd image listed. 

The pipe coming out of the wall does not have any kind of thread on it. I saw a youtube video about a Marvel Connector but it wont work as there is no thread. 

I could try to add a connector to the PVC to make it thicker but the Schedule 40 connectors are just a hair too big.  I could probably put a bunch of PVC cement in there and it would probably work but definitely not up to code.

Any ideas?


Attached Files Image(s)
   
   
   
Reply
#12
(05-17-2022, 03:32 PM)bpatters69 Wrote: Hello All,

I just installed a new faucet in the bathroom and the installation went fairly well except I have a leak where the PVC connects to the drain stub out (where the PVC P Trap connects to the pipe coming out of the wall).

It looks like the previous owner jerry-rigged things as there is a metal (zinc?) connector which in between the pipe coming out of the wall and the PVC. I can tighten the connector piece but it is moveable along the pipe and the PVC. The leak occurs closest to the wall where the nut is.

The first picture below is a picture of the connector and the second is a picture of the whole setup.

I went to Ferguson's and bought a 1.25" Flexible connector (to replace the metal one) and it works on the pipe coming from the wall but it is too big for the PVC. I may try and drop down to a 1" Flexible connector to see if a smaller connector will work. Please see the 3rd image listed. 

The pipe coming out of the wall does not have any kind of thread on it. I saw a youtube video about a Marvel Connector but it wont work as there is no thread. 

I could try to add a connector to the PVC to make it thicker but the Schedule 40 connectors are just a hair too big.  I could probably put a bunch of PVC cement in there and it would probably work but definitely not up to code.

Any ideas?
You might need 2 fittings. A 1 1/4” street trap adapter would be ideal. It would connect to the trap arm and fit into your 1 1/4 fernco. If you can’t find a 1 1/4 street trap adapter, you want a 11/4x 11/2 street trap adapter and a 1 1/4 x 1 1/2 fernco.
Blackhat

Bad experiences come from poor decisions. So do good stories. 


Reply
#13
It looks like a 1-1/4" M x CU threaded adapter in the wall, but I wouldn't go there unless absolutely necessary. You can still do it close to right by purchasing an 1-1/4" slip joint adapter and sweating it on. (Some jurisdictions don't allow horizontal slip joints.) It looks like if the trap is rotated the waste arm will be long enough to reach the new horizontal slip joint. If slip joints aren't in perfect alignment or prone to bumping, I've found the rubber rings to be more forgiving than the nylon beveled washers.
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
Reply
#14
(05-17-2022, 05:40 PM)blackhat Wrote: You might need 2 fittings. A 1 1/4” street trap adapter would be ideal. It would connect to the trap arm and fit into your 1 1/4 fernco. If you can’t find a 1 1/4 street trap adapter, you want a 11/4x 11/2 street trap adapter and a 1 1/4 x 1 1/2 fernco.

Blackhat,

Thanks for the reply. The odd thing about the P Trap PVC is it must be slightly smaller than Schedule 40 as I menioned. I have some connectors lying around which i use for our lawn irrigation. When I try to connect one of the schedule 40 connectors, the P Trap PVC will fit into it but it is a hair too small so it slips. Like I said, i could try to connect it via PVC cement and it would probably work but I doubt it would be up to code. Plumbing is not my thing so I want to get it right as I really dont know what i can get away with. 

I googled "1/4” street trap adapter" and it looks like some of the adapters are threaded which I cannot use as neither the pipe coming from the wall or the P Trap PVC is threaded. This one may not be threaded?

https://pvcpipesupplies.com/1-1-4-trap-a...8SEALw_wcB

Thanks, Bill
Reply
#15
(05-17-2022, 07:43 PM)MstrCarpenter Wrote: It looks like a 1-1/4" M x CU threaded adapter in the wall, but I wouldn't go there unless absolutely necessary. You can still do it close to right by purchasing an 1-1/4" slip joint adapter and sweating it on. (Some jurisdictions don't allow horizontal slip joints.) It looks like if the trap is rotated the waste arm will be long enough to reach the new horizontal slip joint. If slip joints aren't in perfect alignment or prone to bumping, I've found the rubber rings to be more forgiving than the nylon beveled washers.

Thanks MstrCarpenter.

The pipe coming out of the wall is NOT threaded. By slip joint adapter, do you mean something like this?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/NIBCO-1-1-2-.../100348180

The PVC Trap is not in perfect alignment with the pipe coming from the wall. There is a slight turn if you look at it straight on. 

Thanks, Bill
Reply
#16
That trap tubing is CTS ( copper tube size). It’s based on outside diameter. Sch 40 or DWV is based on a nominal inside diameter. A street fitting has a male end instead of a female socket. A trap adapter has a compression nut and sleeve to seal on CTS tubing. The other end, in our preferred flavour, would be a 11/4 male glue stub. The fernco coupling will seal onto that stub.
Blackhat

Bad experiences come from poor decisions. So do good stories. 


Reply
#17
The Fernco flexible connector seems to work! No leaks


Attached Files Image(s)
   
Reply
#18
I’d cut / shorten the plastic wall tube a bit.   

That will allow you rotate the bottom of trap towards the center of the cabinet more , which will align the whole shootin match.
Reply
#19
(05-18-2022, 08:39 AM)bpatters69 Wrote: Thanks MstrCarpenter.

The pipe coming out of the wall is NOT threaded. By slip joint adapter, do you mean something like this?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/NIBCO-1-1-2-.../100348180

The PVC Trap is not in perfect alignment with the pipe coming from the wall. There is a slight turn if you look at it straight on. 

Thanks, Bill

The slip adapter i was referring to is this;   https://www.supplyhouse.com/Elkhart-4611...Slip-Joint
It's the same as what usually showes up in the searches but is made for 1-1/4" copper pipe. If you took the nut and washer away, it would resemble what looks to be on the wall end of the copper pipe, possibly threaded into a galv. steel tee.

Tubing size is measured by the O.D., pipe is measured by the (nominal) I.D.. As the pipe wall increases in thickness (I.E. schedule 40 to schedule 80) the I.D. decreases so the thread size stays the same and fittings for both schedules will fit. (in some instances at least.)

The angle of the waste arm (the part you're having difficulty connecting) to the copper drain pipe can be changed by rotating the trap (U shaped piece) on the tailstock (the piece molded or threaded into the sink trip assy. or strainer). As I stated earlier, a rubber ring is more forgiving than a beveled nylon one, but when the waste arm goes into the 1-1/4" pipe there isn't going to be much play anyway. 

B.T.W. It's only an educated guess that we're dealing with 1-1/4" pipe for two reasons. #1, that's typical in baths (vs. 1-1/2" in kitchens) and #2, there's a small gap around the slip nuts on the trap.
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
Reply
#20
(05-18-2022, 01:44 PM)Cabinet Monkey Wrote: I’d cut / shorten the plastic wall tube a bit.   

That will allow you rotate the bottom of trap towards the center of the cabinet more , which will align the whole shootin match.

^^^^^^this
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)

Product Recommendations

Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.