Wavy oak
#8
I went to look at some quarter sawn white oak. It had a little bit of bow (side to side) from end to end, that I can live with. But it was very wavy, (up and down) from end to end. A 1/4" and more. What can a guy do with that? Anything, except uses the straight pieces in between the waves?

Thanks  Greg
Sometimes it's better to keep your mouth shut, and have the world think you a fool, than to speak and remove all doubt.
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#9
It depends on your project and what equipment you have. If you will be cutting it up into smaller pieces for your project, you can easily straighten and flatten the smaller pieces with your jointer, planner, and table saw. With that, you may find that you can use most all of it.
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#10
Wavy like the planer skipped? Or wavy like uniform thickness but actually wavy? I've never seen the latter, even on 12' boards. But I don't use white oak that much.

I use warped boards a lot more than most (I hate wasting things) and I will often just cut the smaller pieces I need and clean those up. Far less waste that way.
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#11
The boards are uniform in thickness, they just have waves in them. I needed some pieces 36" long. I would have been hard pressed to get much 36" material out of these boards. The plans called for quarter-sawn white oak. I am settling for regular red oak. It'll be alright.

Greg
Sometimes it's better to keep your mouth shut, and have the world think you a fool, than to speak and remove all doubt.
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#12
(05-30-2022, 05:49 PM)Gregor1 Wrote: The boards are uniform in thickness, they just have waves in them. I needed some pieces 36" long. I would have been hard pressed to get much 36" material out of these boards. The plans called for quarter-sawn white oak. I am settling for regular red oak. It'll be alright.

Greg

If it works for your project, if you have to plane them too thin in order to get the waves out, you could laminate two or three pieces back together to get the thickness you need. Or treat one thin piece as veneer using the red oak as a substrate. Then you will have qswo on the exposed face.
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#13
Sounds to me like the sawyer was was to dang lazy to change a dull blade. Pics?

Ed
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#14
I am going to guess you are not experienced building from something like the oak you bought.  We sold hardwood lumber for many years.  Inexperienced customers thought they needed perfect wood to build from because they had not learned to use less than perfect wood.  It could be that what you are building can not be made from the "wavy" lumber you have.  But with some experience, or advice, maybe you can.  From the sparce information you provided I can not tell.  Alternatively, they wood was not properly sawed and dried and you deserve a refund.  

If you want to take a chance on learning something useful provide a picture showing the problem you described and tell us how the lumber is to be used.  I can not match your description of your lumber to my experience with lumber.  Hardwood lumber usually has some bow.  Given how lumber is typically sawed and dried I don't see how it would be possible to produce a board that has several ups and down bows along it length in a board without large knots.  (all bets are off if the lumber was not produced at a large mill that knew what they were doing.  Get carless in placing drying sticks and ups and downs are exactly the result)

As an example, and probably not applicable here but we would often have a customer flummoxed by some bow in a pieced of lumber (bow is not laying flat when the board is on the floor; crook a board that does not have a straight edge).  Bow can sometimes be pulled flat when incorporating the pieces in a glued up panel.  Bow often doesn't matter in a top fastened to a frame. The frame will pull the bow flat....etc.
Bill Tindall
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