Disappointed in Rockler

[castguy2003]

Bought a Rockler router box joint jig. Not happy with the results. Will not hold tolerance on wide (4") boards. Also getting a lot of tear out with 1/4" baltic birch.
Going back to my table saw jig and Freud Box Joint blade set.

[Cabinet Monkey]

Bought a Rockler router box joint jig. Not happy with the results. Will not hold tolerance on wide (4") boards. Also getting a lot of tear out with 1/4" baltic birch.
Going back to my table saw jig and Freud Box Joint blade set.

Tear out on plywood is not rockler’s fault.   Specially w/ 1/4”.


Take your material to the store and ask them to demonstrate the jig for you.  Bring your bit along too. If they get the same results, have a discussion with them about a return or swap, ect…..

[jteneyck]

Bought a Rockler router box joint jig. Not happy with the results. Will not hold tolerance on wide (4") boards. Also getting a lot of tear out with 1/4" baltic birch.
Going back to my table saw jig and Freud Box Joint blade set.

You have to use a backer board, always on the back and sometimes on the front, too.  The jig has nothing to do with it.  d

The tolerance issue could be related to the bit you are using or how you set up the jig.  If the jig is setup for 1/4" or 1/2", or whatever width, then the bit and index pin need to be identical, and the gap between them just a skosh less.  Tolerance mismatch adds up in a hurry if you are off by just a couple of thou.  The type of bit you use has an impact, too.  Spiral bits cut narrower slots than straight bits even though their measured diameter is the same.  

John

[castguy2003]

You have to use a backer board, always on the back and sometimes on the front, too.  The jig has nothing to do with it.  d

The tolerance issue could be related to the bit you are using or how you set up the jig.  If the jig is setup for 1/4" or 1/2", or whatever width, then the bit and index pin need to be identical, and the gap between them just a skosh less.  Tolerance mismatch adds up in a hurry if you are off by just a couple of thou.  The type of bit you use has an impact, too.  Spiral bits cut narrower slots than straight bits even though their measured diameter is the same.  

John

I have used backer boards an d my set up is right on, measured pin and slot with a digital caliper. It's the slop in the jig itself.

[Cabinet Monkey]

Slop in the jig would explain mis aligned or ill-fitting joints, but not tear out.  

Best look at your bit and stock choice on that.  Again, I urged you to take it in and ask for a demo, and if/when they have the same results -  ask for a solution.

[lincmercguy]

I'm not sure about this particular jig, but I tried dovetails in a jig with plywood exactly one time. I ended up with an excessive amount of entropy and decided to try a different type of joint. I'm sure it can be done and the plywood I was using was from the borg, but it just didn't seem like a good material to use with a router from the "end grain" like that.

[jteneyck]

[quote pid="8083521" dateline="1654564920"]
I'm not sure about this particular jig, but I tried dovetails in a jig with plywood exactly one time. I ended up with an excessive amount of entropy and decided to try a different type of joint. I'm sure it can be done and the plywood I was using was from the borg, but it just didn't seem like a good material to use with a router from the "end grain" like that.
[/quote]

Finger joints, like the OP was cutting, work fine with Baltic birch, as long as you use a backer front and back.  I've cut thousands of them making drawer boxes.  I agree that it's not a good choice of material for dovetails.  Even if you get them cut OK the ends of the tails are prone to break off when handling the parts and gluing up.  

John

[paul2004]

I agree with the last two posts.
I have seen some people do finger joints and dovetails on plywood. I am sure the quality of plywood makes a difference.
When I tried it, I got excessive tear out and other problems which caused me to abandon the idea.
I was using the exact setup that I use for solid wood which works great

[MichaelMouse]

Bought a Rockler router box joint jig. Not happy with the results. Will not hold tolerance on wide (4") boards. Also getting a lot of tear out with 1/4" baltic birch.
Going back to my table saw jig and Freud Box Joint blade set.

I find that plywood box joints work best with spiral bits.  The simple jig for a router table works better than all others. Rockler Router Table Box Joint Jig Review | NewWoodworker - Bing video    Elaborate, expensive version of what you could make yourself. 


I have made versions of the Router Workshop jigs.  It's a suitable width spline glued to a piece of melamine, and a hole for the bit.

[Rob Young]

Boxjoint using 3/8" BB ply (cat for scale) :

   

However this was done with a Shaper Origin and not a dado stack or one of the router jigs. Well, OK, the Shaper Origin is a really fancy router jig.

Backer piece of MDF and upcut 1/4" spiral bit. No problems with splintering.

And again in red oak :

   

And you can get a S.O. through Rockler so I guess it counts as a Rockler jig? 


I was searching my picture archive for dovetails done with the Shaper Origin and now I can't find them. Mostly just practice boxes to see how it worked but so long as I use a backer and a sharp, clean bit, those also didn't suffer from tearout.