06-06-2022, 11:26 PM
I read a post that said no one had been posting in Woodworking. Normally I would not have posted this, but ... since the writer of the article wondered why no one had been posting... thought I'd share this simple project. I'll add the caveat that it's not just a simple project for me. It's the first BIG project I've done since the double fracture in my left wrist over a year ago. I am STILL feeling it.
THIS is the original configuration of the bench, built in the 90s when I bought the workbench top from Woodcraft. It has served me well for decades but has had it's drawbacks, mainly the under bench shelf is too close to the underside of the benchtop and impedes the use of holdfasts. I have known this, and have never taken the time to fix it, just worked around it.
As I said, it's been several decades since I built the bench, and I bopped out to the shop here thinking I'd pull a couple lag bolts and drop the shelf a foot, drill a few holes, ratchet in the lag bolts, slam bam thank you ma'am. Done. Nope, I forgot I built that bad boy to last. Mortise and Tenon joinery. I had to disassemble the entire bench. The first step was removing the deck screws holding the top to the base and then taking the base apart. I pulled the screws from the side of the legs, that pierced the tenons, keeping them tight. Then tapped the legs evenly to remove the four tenons that held the two shelves in place. Didn't want to break one off. Done, pieces. The worktop and the bottom shelf were set aside.
Next move was to carefully measure up, and mark the bottom edge of the position for the new mortises. That done, I measured the mark for the inside edges of the new mortise, then the width. Each mortise was supposed to be the same, but NOT. As much as 1/8th difference in length. It's a workbench not a piece of show furniture, but you try and get it right. Careful measuring. Then, 1/2 inch spade bit to start, then 1/2" and 1" chisels and a maul. Four times.
Once the new mortises were all cut, I laid the legs back on their sides, to reduce the strain of reassembly, and lined everything up and with light taps of the short handled 3 pound sledge got the thing started back together. Slowly, so as not to snap a tenon. Tap here, tap there, then around the other side and tap, tap. Slowly but surely. Grumpy isn't fast anyway. Okay, so I rolled around on the mechanics stool, it was the right height. The ones that went right together snug, deck screws. I used the clamps from the rack to pull the rest tight. Deck screws.
How about that, all back together and screwed up tight. Looks like we have ourselves a new base, with more room below the workbench top. The hold fasts should work now.
Now that it's done, most of the tools, including the clamp rack, can be put away. In the case of the clamp rack, it rolls out the door and into the storage space (boathouse) right next to us. The room is part of the building and NOT in the woodshop, but protected. Rarely used tools and equipment go in there out of the way. Completed, the base is inverted and screwed back to the top, and we have a workbench.
I look forward to another three decades of use.
THIS is the original configuration of the bench, built in the 90s when I bought the workbench top from Woodcraft. It has served me well for decades but has had it's drawbacks, mainly the under bench shelf is too close to the underside of the benchtop and impedes the use of holdfasts. I have known this, and have never taken the time to fix it, just worked around it.
As I said, it's been several decades since I built the bench, and I bopped out to the shop here thinking I'd pull a couple lag bolts and drop the shelf a foot, drill a few holes, ratchet in the lag bolts, slam bam thank you ma'am. Done. Nope, I forgot I built that bad boy to last. Mortise and Tenon joinery. I had to disassemble the entire bench. The first step was removing the deck screws holding the top to the base and then taking the base apart. I pulled the screws from the side of the legs, that pierced the tenons, keeping them tight. Then tapped the legs evenly to remove the four tenons that held the two shelves in place. Didn't want to break one off. Done, pieces. The worktop and the bottom shelf were set aside.
Next move was to carefully measure up, and mark the bottom edge of the position for the new mortises. That done, I measured the mark for the inside edges of the new mortise, then the width. Each mortise was supposed to be the same, but NOT. As much as 1/8th difference in length. It's a workbench not a piece of show furniture, but you try and get it right. Careful measuring. Then, 1/2 inch spade bit to start, then 1/2" and 1" chisels and a maul. Four times.
Once the new mortises were all cut, I laid the legs back on their sides, to reduce the strain of reassembly, and lined everything up and with light taps of the short handled 3 pound sledge got the thing started back together. Slowly, so as not to snap a tenon. Tap here, tap there, then around the other side and tap, tap. Slowly but surely. Grumpy isn't fast anyway. Okay, so I rolled around on the mechanics stool, it was the right height. The ones that went right together snug, deck screws. I used the clamps from the rack to pull the rest tight. Deck screws.
How about that, all back together and screwed up tight. Looks like we have ourselves a new base, with more room below the workbench top. The hold fasts should work now.
Now that it's done, most of the tools, including the clamp rack, can be put away. In the case of the clamp rack, it rolls out the door and into the storage space (boathouse) right next to us. The room is part of the building and NOT in the woodshop, but protected. Rarely used tools and equipment go in there out of the way. Completed, the base is inverted and screwed back to the top, and we have a workbench.
I look forward to another three decades of use.
Jim in Okie
You can tell a lot about the character of a man -
By the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
You can tell a lot about the character of a man -
By the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.