Walnut table top

[Francescowalnut12]

Hi everyone!

I recently started a project and I sanded the top of a beautiful table that I got a while ago from Organic Modernism. The top was left out for months and water damaged it.

I used stripper and sandpapered it. Then I used oxalic acid to remove the stains on the surface.
I am attaching images here
-  the dark ones are of the table after stripper and sandpaper (also looks dark cause it was wet of mineral spirit when I took images)
- the light image is of the table after using oxalic acid and the surface is dry - most stains and dots disappeared after using the acid

I called the manufacturer to ask what they used to finish the table and they mentioned:
first - old English oil
second - walnut citrus shield wax
third - triple thick polyurethane
They also mentioned using the oil if I want to make the top darker, otherwise, just use wax.

I am a noob at this but that sequence sounds odd to me. Is it possible that those 3 products have been applied in that sequence? Can polyurethane be applied after the was? 


I have been watching a ton of videoes about finishing a walnut table top and this video seems to provide a good comparison analysis:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SWLm-3_i....Woodworks

Therefore I am leaning toward one of his top 3 (if the manufacturer's instructions are not the best way to go):
Odie's Oil
Rubio monocoat oil plus 2c pure
Osmo 3031 clear matter
(not in order)

To conclude, do you think the manufacturer's instructions are the way to go? If not, any suggestions on those 3 products I just shared or any other I did not consider?
Let me know if I miss out on some important info.

Thank you for helping!!

[FS7]

To answer the first question, no, nothing will adhere on top of wax. It just doesn't work that way. 

The finishes you list are all very similar. Odie's is not clear on their formulation, but Osmo and Rubio are both hard wax oils. These are an oil/varnish/wax solvent blend that cures. Rubio is a single coat (obviously) and must be prepared with a two-part mixture first as it includes an accelerator. I have not used it, but it is all the rage and very well regarded. Please note that Rubio is marketed VERY heavily, and in fact one of the most popular YouTube woodworkers (Cam from Blacktail Studio) once did a comparison test of these three finishes and determined Odie's to be the best. However, he is now exclusively Rubio (or so he says), and I am very suspect as to these religious converts. Those videos are no longer available.

That said, they are all very similar. You can add Fidde's to that list. I think the look and feel of a good satin hard wax oil can't be beat.

Speaking of manufacturer's instructions, I do not follow them (but I always read them). All hard wax oils (at least those that employ multiple coats) suggest applying very thin and removing excess. I will sand to 220, and then apply a moderate coat with a foam roller. It should be even. Do not wipe off the excess. After drying (12-24 hours), sand lightly to remove nibs (you will always get them) and do it again. After that, I use a bowling ball abrasive pad (500 grit Mirka) to remove the nibs again. For the "third coat," if you want to call it that, I will do a light hand-rubbed coat with a paper towel. It will dry very smooth and even. I never got good results doing what they told me, but I'm a tinkerer and figured it out.

[Francescowalnut12]

Thank you FS7! That's helpful.
Do you think satin hard wax oil will be enough of a protection layer for a dining table top?

[FS7]

I find it holds up very well. My last commission was a dining table in cherry for a family with a four year old. It's doing great.

Another plus is that it's very easy to touch up, both as a spot repair and the entire top. The last step I mentioned (the abrasive pad and hand-rubbed coat) is exactly what you would do to refinish.

[Willyou]

The oxalic acid did a good job. I think you now need to do some vigorous sanding to remove the scratches and pits. I would begin with 100 grit and work through 180. I'm not familiar with any of the finish products you mention (except poly), but if it were mine, I would start with a danish oil and sand it in using 320 wet/dry paper on a block. Or, use a grain filler. Then apply what ever finish you prefer.

[jteneyck]

I've used Rubio Monocoat on two walnut projects.  I followed the directions and found it easy to use and the results looked great.  I've done some durability testing on samples finished with it and it's as good as anything I have tested.  Best of all, it's so easy to repair, just wipe on some more finish, unlike any traditional finish I've ever used.  

John

[Cabinet Monkey]

The oxalic acid did a good job. I think you now need to do some vigorous sanding to remove the scratches and pits. I would begin with 100 grit and work through 180. I'm not familiar with any of the finish products you mention (except poly), but if it were mine, I would start with a danish oil and sand it in using 320 wet/dry paper on a block. Or, use a grain filler. Then apply what ever finish you prefer.

Um, Danish oil isn’t very tough or hard wearing.  At least any I’ve used.  

Certainly wouldn’t be using it for a dining table that got heavy use.  I’ve been using the hardwax oils (Osmo, Rubio & odies.) on various wooden tops ( walnut & sapele) that have gone in kitchens , craft rooms , and a couple of laundry rooms. The craft room gets rode hard and left wet and it’s holding up quite well.  Danish oil would be trashed by now.

[Willyou]

Um, Danish oil isn’t very tough or hard wearing.  At least any I’ve used.  

Certainly wouldn’t be using it for a dining table that got heavy use.  I’ve been using the hardwax oils (Osmo, Rubio & odies.) on various wooden tops ( walnut & sapele) that have gone in kitchens , craft rooms , and a couple of laundry rooms. The craft room gets rode hard and left wet and it’s holding up quite well.  Danish oil would be trashed by now.

Please refer to the final sentence of the paragraph you quote.

[Francescowalnut12]

Thank you all for your advice. I think I’ll go with Rubio.
I have another question for y’all. There are some cracks that I have to fill and they are on the darkest part of the wood. I tried with a walnut wood filler but the color is off.
The dust I collected from sanding the table is also probably too light for this spot.
What do you suggest? I need something pretty dark.

[FS7]

Thank you all for your advice. I think I’ll go with Rubio.
I have another question for y’all. There are some cracks that I have to fill and they are on the darkest part of the wood. I tried with a walnut wood filler but the color is off.
The dust I collected from sanding the table is also probably too light for this spot.
What do you suggest? I need something pretty dark.

Wood filler is hit or miss. I have used walnut wood filler with more success than anything else as far as matching goes, but wood filler is never a particularly good choice. When I have imperfect glue lines in my cutting boards because of saw marks (1/64" or less) I will usually just put Titebond III in the joint and sand it. This is effectively "neutral" wood filler as it collects dust from the various strips of wood and mixes well with the glue. It isn't perfect, but works well in that situation.

For your situation, I wouldn't try to match exactly. That will be almost impossible, and it's in a character section of the wood. They do make and sell tinted CA glue, or you can also buy CA glue and use TransTint to make whatever color you want. I have several small bottles (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M5N...UTF8&psc=1) that I use for this purpose. If you use the needle, it's easy enough to fill in the crack. If you're not sure of your ability to maintain the crack borders (especially with dye) brush on a little clear CA glue along the edges so you don't stain the wood with the dye. Epoxy can work for this purpose too with the same limitations. I find that darker is always better. For what it's worth, if the crack itself appears dark, then clear CA glue will work just fine as well. It sands and finishes well.

One other idea that I like the sound of (but have never tried) is to use a pyrography tool (wire burner) to blend in the wood filler. That should rather easily darken and blend it depending on what tip you use.